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The Dish with Jess Harter ~ Pursuing food and fun across the East Valley

Archive for the 'West of Western' Tag

Photos: West of Western culinary festival (Day 2)

March 15th, 2009, 6:25 pm by Jess Harter

Another gorgeous afternoon for Day 2 of West of Western. I thought the crowds were slightly larger than Day 1 (read my Day 1 report) at the outdoor Grand Tasting tents, which featured a bunch of different restaurants than Saturday. Inside Phoenix Art Museum, however, the Wine Hall seemed a little less busy.

The most sought-out restaurant of the day had to be Quiessence. Chef Greg LaPrad had promised a 10-course meal, but showed up with a whopping 15 courses! LaPrad’s mother even flew in from Boston to watch her son work. “He never comes to visit because he’s always too busy,” she said.

Among Quiessence’s dishes: Smoked pork shoulder with shaved fennel and arugula (left), heirloom cauliflower “tartare” on brick oven crostini (center) and house-cured spicy coppa with wine and fennel seed salami.

Chef Michael O’Dowd headed a big team from Chandler’s Native American-influenced Kai, Arizona’s only Mobil five-star restaurant.

The Wild Horse Pass resort’s centerpiece restaurant was cooking lamb shank that smelled delicious on a rotisserie.

Kai’s dishes included Churro lamb on an Indian frybread pillow with a tzatziki-like cucumber yogurt and fig, curry and date chutney (left), First Origins chocolate pudding from Ecuador with 60-day corn brittle (center) and a Native American-inspired “Slurpee” with lavender, mint, hibiscus flower, coffee, chipotle, mango and finger.

After featuring menu items from its fabulous Talavera on Saturday, the Four Seasons Scottsdale tent spotlighted its Crescent Moon on Sunday. The staff was making fresh tortillas on site, as chef Mel Mecinas grills them in the background.

The tortillas were used for tacos — pork adobo or halibut — which came with the choice of charred tomato salsa, avocado-tomatillo salsa or spicy papaya-habanero salsa.

For dessert, Crescent Moon offered a sour cream mousse with spicy raspberry coulis and chocolate biscotti.

Owner-chef Deborah Knight was working the Mosiac tent. She and husband Matt Rinn, Mosiac’s wine director, also gave a class, “Secrets of Wine and Food Pairing.”

Knight made two dishes: A wonderful Duncan Farms mache salad with carmelized onion and maple vinaigrette (left) and a spicy Thai shrimp and coconut soup.

Owner-chef James Porter explains his lone offering at the Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar tent. It was one of the day’s most unique treats …

A “new-fashioned float” made with Sonoran root beer, foie gras ice cream and Arizona candied pecans! It was simple but amazingly good.

In one of Sunday’s many seminars, cookbook author and TV show host Barbara Fenzl spoke to a packed room about “Chiles: Get ‘em While They’re Hot.”

Brandon Crouser was one of two chefs working the Atlas Bistro tent.

Atlas offered its version of a Cuban sandwich made with seared foie gras and house pickles on focaccia bread with house-made chips that Crouser deep-fried on site.

Chef Brandon Crouser (left) deep-fries more chips in the Atlas Bistro tent while his brother, chef Nathan Crouser (right), prepares sloppy joe sliders in the next-door District tent.

District, at the Sheraton Phoenix Downtown, was one of a couple restaurants that participated both days. In my Day 1 report, I raved about Nathan Crouser’s buffalo-meat Sloppy Joe sliders but forgot to get a photo. I made sure to get one Sunday.

Another returnee for Day 2 was Simply Bread. Master baker Jeffrey Yankellow again made the sopressata and aged provolone paninis with roasted red peppers and pesto that were a hit on Day 1.

Chef Claudio Urciuoli worked the tent for Prado, the great new Spanish-themed restaurant at the Montelucia Resort in Paradise Valley.

The Italian-born Urciuoli was giving out burricotta with Michele Ferrante wood oven-dried peppers, wild oregano and Denocciolato extra virgin olive oil. He’s not the only Valley chef who moves easily between Spanish and Italian cuisines …

Chef Aaron May, who made a trio of pinchos at his Sol y Sombra tent Saturday, returned Sunday to teach a class on Spanish cooking. May also recently opened an Italian restaurant, Autostrada, at DC Ranch.

Chef Dwayne Allen of The Breadfruit, a tiny Jamaican eatery in downtown Phoenix, was grilling chicken for …

… jerk chicken with roasted pineapple and mango chutney (left). The Breadfruit also gave away ginger sweet potato pudding.

Festival-goers gave a thumbs-up to The Breadfruit. Even though I live in Chandler, I can’t wait to make the trip over to Phoenix to check out this place.

Two Lisas were giving away meatballs and fresh-baked focaccia bread at the Lisa G Cafe Wine Bar tent. The one on the right is chef-owner Lisa Giungo, who uses old family recipes.

Posh was offering roasted garlic panna cotta with watercress pesto. Nothing sweet here, but …

… chef Joshua Herbert also was handing out Meyer lemon popsicles.

Bar Smith chef Michael Cairns made a Pacific shrimp salad with a roasted tomato vinaigrette and rosemary flatbread.

The Sugar Thieves performed for the crowd Sunday.

Brian Archibald, chef at Tuscany at the JW Marriott Desert Ridge, chats with a festival-goer.

Archibald made braised octupus with blood orange oil and micro arugula.

Turquoise Room chef John Sharpe came all the way from Winslow to make churro lamb posole. The lamb is free-range-reared on the Navajo Reservation.

Different Pointe of View chef Anthony DeMuro made a colorful pan-seared organic Gigha halibut with shrimp, Peruvian purple potatoes, Peppadew peppers, mushrooms, asparagus, lemon fennel and butter sauce.

Inside the Wine Hall, master baker Patrick Peeters drew a lot of interest with a huge display of chocolates from his Peeters Belgian Pastries & Chocolates.

Peters’ chocolates were almost too pretty to eat. I said almost.

(Read my Day 1 report)

Photos: West of Western culinary festival (Day 1)

March 14th, 2009, 8:38 pm by Jess Harter

A beautiful day, a beautiful setting, beautiful food … I was totally impressed by Day 1 of West of Western. The two-day culinary festival, featuring 25 of the Valley’s top chefs each day, moved to the Phoenix Art Museum last year. I missed the 2008 fest, so this was my first time at the museum’s sculpture garden.

It’s a steep ticket — $85 for a day ($150 for both) — but that gets you as much food and drink as you can consume in five hours. The “lines,” if there were any, were maybe two or three people long at each tent. Plus, there’s live entertainment and you can amble through all of the museum’s galleries.

From the easy parking (free) to the dozens of helpful museum guides on duty, this is one well-run event, now in its fifth year. I was thinking about only going for one day, but now I’m definitely going back tomorrow. Here’s what I found Saturday (also read my Day 2 report):

Just a few days short of its first anniversary, Chandler small-plates restaurant Cork was the big hit of Day 1 and had the heaviest traffic at its booth, which was manned by chef Brian Peterson and owner Robert Morris.

The south Chandler restaurant offered six dishes, all streamlined versions of items on its menu, which changes every other month. Smoked antelope with Cypress Grove’s Midnight Moon chevre cheese on a tomato herb cracker was gone quickly.

Cork also paired a seared scallop with a braised short rib with hunter’s sauce. It also did a King crab salad with spinach almond hummus and a mac-and-cheese made with Widmer’s aged cheddar and barbecued pork belly. Robert’s wife, Danielle, made two fabulous desserts: a chocolate chile pot de creme and a banana cream pie shot with caramelized banana and an Oreo crust.

Marc Hennessy is chef of BLT Steak at the Camelback Inn.

Hennessy’s dish was grilled Kobe skirt steak with brown butter crouton and a chimichurri sauce.

A festival-goer samples one of LV Bistro chef Forest Hamrick’s offerings from the Fairmont Scottsdale resort.

Hamrick did a spice-rubbed loin of lamb with dried fruit chutney (left) and a salmon ceviche on a compressed cucumber with saffron and organic apple slaw (right).


Master baker Ben Hershberger’s bread table at The Phoenician resort’s tent was ravaged by other chefs even before the festival opened to the public. Anyone who’s eaten at The Phoenican knows why. I went back later for a second slice of the olive bread.

Victor Casanova, chef at The Phoenician’s Il Terrazzo restaurant, chats with a festival-goer.

Casanova was giving out hand-seared diver scallops with Tuscan farro, sugar snap peas, butternut squash, cherry tomatoes and a lemon vinaigrette.

Some people take a break on the sculpture garden’s sunny patio.

One of the biggest surprises of Day 1 was District, a relatively unknown restaurant at the Sheraton Phoenix Downtown. Chef Nathan Crouser’s Sloppy Joe sliders, made with buffalo on challah buns, were popular, but I liked his mac and cheese even more.

The creamy mac and cheese had chunks of pulled chicken and spicy andouille sausage from Schreiner’s in Phoenix.

The first cooking demonstration of the day featured The Phoenician’s Paul Carter (left) and his “sous chef,” who bore a striking resemblance to Phoenix mayor Phil Gordon.

Mel Mecinas, the acclaimed chef at Talavera at the Four Seasons Scottsdale, sears some scallops.

The scallops (left) were accompanied by baby spring vegetables and a mushroom cream. Mecinas also did ahi tuna poke with a pappadom cracker.

But my favorite thing at Talavera’s tent were the chocolate croquettes with candied pineapple. Delicious!

Inside the museum, the Wine Hall, which offered samples from more than 100 winemakers, was packed.

There also were wine seminars all day.

The Wine Hall also hosted a couple chocolatiers, including Lisa Reinhardt’s Wie of Chocolate.

Wei of Chocolate makes several kinds of organic dark chocolate.

The spirits weren’t limited to wine. Roka Akor was dishing out shochu, which it poured through a block of ice.

Speaking of Roka, back outside the Scottsdale restaurant set up a small version of its robata grill to make my favorite item on its menu, Korean-spiced lamb cutlets.

Roka chef Bjoern Weissgerber also was handing out butterfish tataki with white asparagus and yuzu (left) and maki plates with a spicy tuna roll and California roll.

Seen walking around the festival: Sol y Sombra chef Aaron May.

Back at the Sol y Sombra tent, May was offering a trio of tapas or pinchos: Octopus with arugula and pink grapefruit on grilled flatbread (left), Caribbean sweet shrimp with piquillo pepper and pimenton (center) and bacon-wrapped dates with Cabrales sauce.

Chef Michael Stebner from True Food Kitchen grills ahi tuna.

The tuna was used to make sliders with avocado and wasabi aoili. They were paired with a Tuscan kale salad with lemon, organic olive oil and parmesan.

Meanwhile, at Stebner’s former restaurant, Olive & Ivy, chef Clint Woods has moved up from Tucson, where he opened several Sam Fox restaurants.

Woods made an heirloom beet salad with Arizona pistachios and goat cheese dressing (left) and veal and spinach ravioli with shaved parmesan and mizuna greens.

James Saio is the latest chef to oversee Taggia at the Firesky Resort in Scottsdale.

Saio made a simple but tasty piadini stuffed with butternut squash and topped with mascarpone, arugula and speck.

A band called Dry River Yacht Club performed for the crowd.

Master baker Jeffrey Yankellow and his Simply Bread staff went beyond just bread.

They made a sopressata and aged provolone panini with roasted red peppers and pesto that was amazing.

Steven Zimmerman is chef at ICON, the restaurant at the Wyndham Phoenix.

Zimmerman made cocoa butter seared scallops with fresh field greens from Scottsdale’s Singh Farms and a truffle vinaigrette (left) and mushroom-miso consomme with tofu noodles. He also was handing out shots of a refreshing pomegranate-agave limeade.

As it got hotter during the mid-afternoon, I ducked inside to check out some of the artwork in the museum. I need to come back when I have more time.

The festival also was showing several food-related films, including “Endless Feast — Phoenix” and “A Gift from Talking God: The Story of the Navajo-Churro.”

Meritage chef Smail Yaakoubi made house-smoked beef short ribs with polenta and crispy shallots.

Mucho Gusto’s Chad Withycombe brought his green chile posole with slow-roasted pork and hominy in a tomatillo broth made with green chiles, cilantro and fresh lime juice.

Diners enjoy a shady break with a close-up view of Magdalena Abakanowicz’s sculpture entitled “Five Dancing.”

Pinata’s Latin Kitchen chef Carlos Marquez made cochinita pibil, a Mexican slow-roasted pork dish with cotija cheese, cilantro and lime.

The Wild Thaiger’s Olashawn Hasadinratana, sporting a huge bandage over her nose, made a green papaya salad with shrimp.

Chef Carolyn Ellis, who made grilled corn cakes with pulled pork and lime, had the shortest distance to travel. Her Arcadia Farms Cafe is located at the museum.

(Read my Day 2 report)

West of Western showcases 50 of Valley’s top chefs

March 13th, 2009, 9:59 am by Jess Harter

Imagine indulging in an all-you-can-eat smorgasbord of dishes prepared by 50 of the Valley’s top chefs, accompanied by wines from nearly 100 winemakers. This foodie fantasy becomes reality this weekend at Western of Western, one of the Valley’s premier culinary festivals, at Phoenix Art Museum.

The highlights include:

• A Grand Tasting, held outdoors in the museum’s sculpture garden, featuring signature dishes prepared by acclaimed chefs and master bakers — 25 each day — who will be on hand to answer questions about ingredients and techniques.

• A Wine Table, held inside the museum’s Great Hall, with samples of wines and spirits from around the world. Wines can be paired with confections made by some of the Valley’s best chocolatiers.

• Classes and seminars from food and wine experts, such as hand-pulling mozzarella with Digestif chef Payton Curry or learning about chiles from cookbook author and TV host Barbara Fenzl.

Festival admission is $85 for one day or $150 for two days, which includes all the food and wine, seminars and live entertainment. Food-only passes are available for $77 and $134.

Participation in West of Western, now in its fifth year, is limited to independent or chef-driven restaurants, which must be invited by the festival’s chefs council.

“This is all about promoting restaurants and Arizona food and discovering we have distinct culture,” says festival director Scott Andrews. “It’s not all western. Arizona is a very contemporary place.

“Even though restaurants like Kai (at the Wild Horse Pass Resort & Spa in Chandler) use traditional ingredients, it’s done with contemporary style and techniques.”

New invitees this year include Chandler small-plates restaurant Cork; Scottsdale’s Roka Akor, just named one of the top 10 sushi spots in the country by Esquire; and Prado, the centerpiece of the new Montelucia Resort in Paradise Valley.

Chefs are asked to prepare one or two dishes for the tasting, but many are going beyond that. Cork’s Brian Peterson says he will offer five, and Quiessence’s Greg LaPrad is planning 10 courses.

“I’d have to say restaurants are getting much more extravagant than previously,” Andrews says. “Over the years, restaurants also have gotten more interactive with the crowds.”

About 1,500 people attended each day of last year’s festival, and Andrews says this year’s attendance will be limited to no more than 2,000.

Festival tickets also include admission to the museum and a first look at “In Contemporary Rhythm: The Art of Ernest L. Blumenschein,” the first-ever Arizona exhibition of the influential Taos painter’s work.

West of Western
When: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Where: Phoenix Art Museum, 1625 N. Central Ave.
How much: Food and wine $85 (one day) or $150 (two days), food-only $77 and $134, youth $22, children under 9 free.
Info: (602) 262-5652 or westofwestern.com.

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