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The Dish with Jess Harter ~ Pursuing food and fun across the East Valley

Archive for the 'Tapino' Tag

More E.V. restaurant closings: El Chorro, Fine’s Cellar

May 27th, 2009, 8:33 am by Jess Harter

Fine's Cellar

Is the faltering economy finally catching up to the Valley’s restaurant scene? I was surprised the first four months of 2009 brought relatively few high-profile restaurant closings — certainly no more than years past and perhaps even fewer than usual. But the true test, many experts predicted, would come when seasonal visitors departed and summer arrived.

They may be right. Last week, James Porter closed his acclaimed Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar in Scottsdale. Going into the weekend, the Republic reported Paradise Valley landmark El Chorro Lodge was being shut down. Today, New Times is reporting Fine’s Cellar, wine guru Michael Fine’s bistro (pictured above) in Old Town Scottsdale, is kaput.

Those inclined to see the glass half-full will point out that, while the economy surely played a large role, Porter also blamed an ongoing dispute with Tapino’s landlord. (He’s preparing to open a new restaurant in downtown Scottsdale this summer.) El Chorro has been sold, but the new owners haven’t announced their plans for the 22 acres of prime real estate.

Tapino, El Chorro, Fine’s. All gone is just over a week. Coincidence or the beginning of a trend?

Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar closes in Scottsdale

May 19th, 2009, 10:26 pm by Jess Harter

Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar

After five years, owner-chef James Porter has closed Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar (pictured above), citing a combination of the economic recession and ongoing disputes with the Scottsdale Promenade restaurant’s landlord.

“The economy has changed,” he says. “It’s a huge space, 5,600 square feet. I needed to put it to sleep, but it had good times and good memories in it.”

For Porter, one of the pioneers of the Valley’s local food movement, those memories will include several popular “locavore” dinners hosted by the small-plates eatery, a steady stream of fun events (such as last week’s wine dinner featuring boxed wines) and some unusual dishes (such as his homemade foie gras ice cream).

Tapino Kitchen & Wine BarBut don’t expect Porter (pictured) to be kicking up his heels. He’s already working on his next restaurant, Petite Maison, which he describes as a rustic French country bistro.

“We’re starting on construction next week,” he says. “All the permits are finally passed and we’re ready to rumble.”

Porter hopes to open his new place, which takes over the former Baby Kay’s space in downtown Scottsdale, by July 14, which is the French national holiday Bastille Day.

“The price point is extremely affordable,” he says. “Although Tapino was an amazing value, I think, for the creativity, this is going to be more approachable.”

Expect appetizers around $6, entrees from $14 to $19 and desserts for $6, Porter says,

Petite Maison (French for “small home” — it’s just 1,500 square feet, compared to Tapino’s 5,600) will offer lunch, dinner and a “weekend marketplace.” But Porter is most excited about a late-night menu.

“We’re gonna do a late-night ‘underground’ menu that will really focus on the hospitality field — the cooks and the chefs — that will be starting at 11 o’clock at night and go to 3 o’clock in the morning,” he says.

“A very cool (menu) — roasted bone marrow with toast – things that cooks and chefs like to eat. And foodies that really like something crazy and different.”

(this post updated May 20, 2009)

‘Drink Inside the Box’ wine dinner at Tapino

May 4th, 2009, 3:31 pm by Jess Harter

boxed wineTapino Kitchen & Wine Bar continues to come up with creative special events. Next up: A boxed wine dinner called “Drink Inside the Box” on Thursday, May 14.

Owner/chef James Porter will prepare a four-course meal paired with four boxed wines for $49 per person plus tax and tip. The menu:

• Citrus-poached fruits de mer with edamame puree and caviar (Wine pairing: Delicato Bota Box chardonnay, California 2007)

• Grilled duck breast with braised fennel, jowl bacon and thyme (Darling Hills “Ovation” cabernet cinsault, South Africa NV)

• Wood-oven-roasted New York steak with pommes frites and cabernet butter (Four cabernet sauvignon, California 2006)

• Warm chocolate fondant cake with summer berries (Black Box merlot, California 2007)

The dinner will start at 6:30 p.m., and reservations are required. Info: (480) 991-6887 or tapino.com.

Photos: Locavore AZ Tour dinner at Superstition Farm

April 5th, 2009, 2:16 pm by Jess Harter

Tapino chef and Slow Food enthusiast James Porter kicked off his Locavore AZ Tour on Saturday afternoon at Superstition Farm in east Mesa. The idea is to bring his popular locavore dinners — made almost entirely with ingredients produced within 100 or so miles of the Valley — to some of the Arizona farms, dairies, ranches and vineyards supplying the products.

Nearly 100 people showed up at the family-owned dairy operation near Elliot Road and the Loop 202. Guests were able to tour the farm before enjoying a four-course, al fresco feast set up between two cow pens.

Superstition Farm has more than 1,000 cows on its 30 acres. Most are Holsteins (like the one pictured), but they also have some Jerseys. Each cow is tagged so the dairy can track its history, health and even how much milk it is producing each month.

Think cows just eat hay? Think again. Besides hay, their feed mixture also contains corn, mill-run wheat, brewer’s grain, corn gluten pellets and even cotton seed. A typical cow eats about 50 pounds of feed per day and can drink the equivalent of a bath tub of water.

Know what these are? Each cow has one of these magnets inserted into its stomach (actually, the first of its four stomachs) to catch any pieces of metal (nails, screws, wire, etc.) that it may eat during its lifetime. Even a small nail, if it got past the first stomach, could cut and likely kill a cow.

This little guy (gal?) was born earlier in the day and already was staggering around. All calves born at the dairy go to a special calf-raising facility in the West Valley for the first 12 weeks of their lives to increase their chances of survival.

Here’s where the cows are washed by sprinkler-like heads in the floor. Each cow is washed twice before it is milked in the morning, and twice more before it is milked in the evening. I have to admit this barn is probably cleaner than my house.

These are the milking machines. There are two rows with 12 stations in each. While one row of 12 are being milked (which takes 6-8 minutes), the other row of 12 are being hooked up, and so forth. If you do the math, you can see why it takes from 5 a.m. to noon to milk all the cows, then again from 5 p.m. to midnight. Every day of the year.

This is the walkway beneath the two rows of milking machines. (Notice, again, it’s spotless.)

The milk is pumped into these two 4,000-gallon tanks. Each cow produces about eight gallons of milk per day so — if you do the math again — these tanks are filled every day. They’re emptied by those big milk tankers you occasionally see on the road.

This was my tour guide Larry Hoing. He’s just one of the tour guides for the farm, which gets up to 200 visitors a day. You can get more info on tours here.

After my tour, I joined the pre-dinner cocktail reception, which featured Arizona wines and beers, was well as passed appetizers.

The reception afforded guests an up-close view of the cows.

When dinner was ready, chef Porter climbed a stack of hay bales to thank the guests for their support of the locavore concept. “Walk away knowing you drank the Kool-Aid,” he joked. “Spread the word!”

Listening to Porter were Jan Schaefer and Rod Keeling. She used to be Tempe’s economic development director; he was director of the Downtown Tempe Community (DTC). Now the couple live in Cochise County in southeast Arizona and operate Keeling & Schaefer Vineyards. Their “Two Reds” grenache and “Three Sisters” syrah were two of the four featured wines. You can find them at AJ’s Fine Foods and other retail outlets.

The guests of honor: A pair of suckling pigs from Mesa’s Brad Payne, known as the “Arizona Herdsman.”

Time for dinner! The leisurely meal was served family-style, and guests were encouraged to move around and meet other people.

I got a chance to meet a lot of great people during the dinner. Sitting to my left were Jim Boyle (black shirt) and his wife, Alex, who run a neighboring dairy farm. Jim told me there are eight dairies in the immediate area.

Across from me was Tim Wilson, who raises pigs and owns The Meat Shop at 202 E. Buckeye Road in Phoenix. He’s still working on a website, but you can reach the shop at (602) 258-5075. The lady next to him has a computer software company, and her friend has a date farm near Camelback Mountain.

The first course featured large bowls of native tepary bean hummus made with olive oil from Queen Creek Olive Mill. It was served with a rustic grilled flat bread.

Porter jokes around with several guests.

Paul Schwennesen, whose Double Check Ranch near Winkelman supplied the beef for the dinner, chats with a couple guests between courses.

The second course was a salad made with roasted baby beets, glazed turnps and Batavian lettuce from Peoria’s Seacat Gardens, farmer’s cheese from Superstition Farm and herb garden vinaigrette from Maya’s Farm in Phoenix.

Casey Stechnij, who runs his family’s Superstition Farm, chats with guests. This may be the only time you’ll see Casey without his trademark hat, shorts and rubber boots.

Tapino’s temporary kitchen was manned by a small army of cooks and servers.

Here’s a photo where you actually can see Paul’s face.

Tapino PR whiz Wendy Goldman visits with a guest.

Porter was working hard to get the main course out to nearly 100 guests at the same time …

… and here it is: Heaping platters of fire-roasted suckling pig and charbroiled Double Check Ranch beef with Maya’s braised fennel, rosemary baby carrots, creamed spinach and One Windmill Farm campfire potatoes.

The evening’s other featured winemaker, Sam Pillbury (white hat), chats with Porter. His Pillsbury Wine Company, also located in Cochise County, shared two wines: its “One Night Stand” rosé and “Roan Red” blend.

Casey and his sister, Alison, who runs a boutique gift shop at the farm.

The final course was a fabulous Brown Betty pie made with Green Valley Pecan Company pecans and Sphinx Date Ranch dates and topped with Superstition Farm’s own Udder Delights ice cream. Of course, the pie was served with a goblet of fresh milk.

After dessert, Porter made one last speech thanking the crowd.

As the sun began to set, no one wanted to leave. People already were talking about next month’s dinner at Ash Creek Ranch in Dewey.

Tapino adds 4-course, prix fixe dinner menu

March 30th, 2009, 3:20 pm by Jess Harter

Speaking of owner-chef James Porter, he has seasonally updated Tapino’s menu and introduced a weekly prix fixe dinner menu featuring many local food products. The prix fixe menu is four courses for $34, with the option of a paired wine flight for another $21.

The prix fixe menu will change every Wednesday and be available for a week. You can check out the latest incarnation here. Info: (480) 991-6887 or tapino.com.

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