The Landmark Restaurant certainly lives up to its name. In a populace-come-lately metropolitan area where “historical” often is used to describe any structure built before 1980, the red building on the southwest corner of Main Street and Extension Road in Mesa began life as a Mormon church in 1908.

More than a century later, the complex — the original building was joined by a recreational hall in the 1920s and a smaller meeting hall in the ‘30s — has gone through several incarnations. In 1963, it housed Phoenix College’s first Mesa branch, which later became Mesa Community College.

Since 1972, though, it’s been a restaurant, one that embraces its heritage. Credit New Hampshire natives Don and Candy Ellis, who took over what was then called Roach’s Schoolhouse Restaurant in 1981 and have lovingly restored and maintained it as The Landmark.

The exterior still looks like a church. But through the heavy wooden door and up 12 stairs, entering the dining room is like walking into a Victorian-era parlor. The dark blue and green colors and floral-like design of the old-fashioned carpet are continued on matching wallpaper and the chair upholstery.

Blue-and-white porcelain-ware and oversized floral arrangements decorate the dark wood shelves and hutches. Faux windows are covered by white lace curtains. Five ornate chandeliers hang from the high ceiling. This is definitely your grandparents’ type of restaurant.

Which is why, I suppose, the menu caters to that demographic. Can you think of another East Valley restaurant that offers beef stroganoff ($13.95)? It’s just one of the many traditional comfort foods available, along with braised pot roast ($14.75), stuffed meatloaf ($14.25), chicken Kiev ($17.25), pork tenderloin ($15.25) … you get the idea.

It may not be adventurous cuisine, but dishes are made from scratch. The meats are quality cuts, preparations are near-perfect and portions are ample. Even sides — like sliced carrots glazed with maple syrup — are simple but delicious.

The big draw at The Landmark, though, is the salad bar, which takes up an entire room. In the days before Souper Salad and Sweet Tomatoes arrived, this was the Valley’s biggest salad bar. Today, it remains one of the most diverse.

Quail eggs? Check. Pickled watermelon? Yep. Prickly pear cactus. Sure. Along with about 75 other items, ranging from chili to meatballs to cinnamon rolls.

The salad bar ($9.95 at lunch, $14 at dinner) easily can serve as a meal by itself. But I also add it (for an extra $6) whenever I order a sandwich or entrée. The price is a bit steep for an add-on, but I’d rather take home some leftover entrée than miss out.

The Landmark Restaurant
Where: 809 W. Main St., Mesa (southwest corner of Main Street and Extension Road)
Open: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: Lunch sandwiches/entrées $7.45-$14.95, appetizers $6.95-$9, dinner entrees $11.95-$23.25, desserts $5-$6.50.
Info: (480) 962-4652 or www.landmarkrestaurant.com

(Photos by Darryl Webb, East Valley Tribune)