Like all sports champions, McDuffy’s run eventually had to come to end. Still, it was a little surprising when the venerable institution abruptly closed last year after 18 years. (A Peoria spinoff is still going strong.)

Now, owner Scott Adams has unveiled a new concept: McDuffy’s Grille.

Launched last month on the northwest corner of McQueen and Pecos roads in Chandler, McDuffy’s Grille still emphasizes sports-watching — there are 20 high-definition screens — but the vibe is that of a slightly upscale restaurant.

Say goodbye to pool tables, sand volleyball courts and off-track betting. Say hello to steak chimichurri, mojito chicken, wine by the glass in two price tiers.

The 6,800-square-foot space is divided into two parts. The cozy indoor area features a polished granite bar, comfortable booths and dramatic lighting. The new restaurant’s slogan — “Eat, Drink, Relax” — is printed in three-foot letters on the brick-colored wall.

The large covered patio offers more booths, as well as low and high tables. Decorative touches include polished metal railing and palm trees with bright green lights.

The menu of American and Mexican dishes caters to a diverse clientele.

Appetizers range from traditional bar food, such as wings ($8.99 for 10) and nachos ($5.99), to fancier selections, such as Baja shrimp martinis ($8.95) and chicken taquitos drizzled with a spicy avocado sauce ($7.99).

Sampler platters (pictured left) are available, allowing you to mix and match small portions of as many as six appetizers.

Fans of the Tempe McDuffy’s will be happy to find the burgers and sandwiches are as delicious as ever. The latter group includes a tender chipotle barbecue chicken breast topped with honey-cured bacon ($9.89) and a hefty Philly smothered in onions, peppers and mushrooms ($9.89).

But I’m most impressed with the house specialties.

The aforementioned steak chimichurri ($15.99) — sliced flank steak well-seasoned with Southwest spices and the Argentine sauce — is aptly complemented with sweet-chili mashed potatoes.

And then there are the Tex-Mex ribs ($13.99 for half-rack, shown at right). The savory meat on the pork back ribs, grilled with a spicy-sweet barbecue sauce, literally falls onto my plate when I lift them.

Dessert choices are somewhat limited but include artery-challenging cheesecake bites ($5.25) rolled in graham cracker crust, deep-fried and served with ice cream.

If I’m going to be a regular at McDuffy’s Grille — and I will be — maybe a sand volleyball court isn’t such a bad idea after all.

>> McDuffy’s Grille, 980 E. Pecos Road, Chandler, is open 10 a.m. to midnight Sunday, 11 a.m. to midnight Monday and Tuesday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Wednesday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday. (480) 966-8200.