Julian Wright doesn’t have a pizza recipe handed down through generations in his family. In fact, he’ll be the first to admit he doesn’t know much at all about making pies.

But he does know Mill Avenue, and for his latest downtown Tempe venture, La Bocca Urban Pizzeria & Wine Bar, that may be enough.

The restaurateur already has launched two Mill hotspots, Jax Thai Bar and Library Bar & Grill, both of which he subsequently sold. Both offered decent enough food, but neither built its reputation on its menu.

Jax, which he opened in 2000, was one of the pioneers of the trendy lounge vibe that eventually would become so prevalent in East Valley nightlife.

The Library, where the female staffers dress like sexy librarians and dance on the bar, has been a popular ASU hangout since its 2002 opening, spawning a host of copycats.

Now, though, Wright is turning his attention to a different demographic. He sees the expensive high-rise condos along Tempe Town Lake filling up with residents looking for a relaxing alternative to college bars and see-and-be-seen lounges.

His answer is La Bocca, a casual place to meet friends for a light meal or glass of wine.

The funky, urban-chic décor features a large Mona Lisa-like painting behind the bar, a sea of orange and green furnishings and a wall montage of colorful photos.

There’s a variety of seating, ranging from a communal table large enough to seat a dozen people to a sidewalk patio for those wanting to be part of the sights and sounds (and, occasionally, the smells) of the busy street.

La Bocca’s menu (see menu PDF – note: several items no longer available) isn’t huge. There are just six 11-inch pizzas — no creating your own — along with four salads and five sandwiches.

Wright wasn’t able to install the wood-fired oven he wanted, but the taste isn’t too far off. The sausage and fennel pizza ($13, pictured above) I try comes with a sweet marinara sauce and a soft, chewy crust.

But I am much more impressed with the sandwiches, such as roast beef, cheddar cheese and chipotle mayo on ciabatta bread ($9). Turkey with brie and caramelized apple ($9) is another winner.

Bruschetta comes in eight choices (four for $12). I like the dates, proscuitto and apple and the roasted red pepper and artichoke.

An antipasto platter of babaganoush ($9, pictured at left), a hummus-like paste made with roasted eggplant, is enlivened with flakes of crushed red pepper. It comes with feta cheese, red peppers and lightly toasted bread.

Two scoops of gelato ($4) — one hazelnut, the other pistachio — make a simple but pleasant dessert.

The real draw of the 150-seat eatery, however, isn’t so much the food as the extensive wine list, which leans heavily on California and Italy, and the urban atmosphere.

For Wright, it seems, his third Mill restaurant is yet another charm.

>> La Bocca Urban Pizzeria & Wine Bar, 699 S. Mill Avenue, Tempe, is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. (480) 967-5244.

(First Taste reviews are based on initial visits to new East Valley restaurants. Full reviews are written after multiple visits, usually over a period of several weeks, after the restaurant has been open at least a couple months.)