Nearly a month after taking down its “Opening May 17th” banner, Hickory Ridge BBQ finally opened its doors Saturday on the northeast corner of Ellsworth and Ocotillo roads in Queen Creek.

The Texas-style barbecue joint takes its name, in part, from owner Kevin Ridge (pictured below with his wife, Laura), who ran a catering business in California before moving to the East Valley two years ago.

Ridge’s strip-mall space is mostly designed for takeout and catering. A long, gray counter runs the width of the shallow storefront. A couple of small tables can accommodate, maybe, 10 people.

The décor underwhelms. A few star-shaped accent pieces and a piece of needlework reading “Today’s menu: Take it or leave it” hang on the dull yellow walls. The menu is written on the back wall.

What Hickory Ridge lacks in amenities, though, it tries to make up with a tempting lineup of smoked meats, Southern-style sides and desserts.

Sandwiches, served on cornmeal-dusted buns, are good-sized. The pulled pork version ($5.95) has very tender meat, while sliced beef brisket ($5.95) has a smokier flavor.

But the highlight of both sandwiches — and the real star at Hickory Ridge — is the barbecue sauce, which is thick, sweet, tangy and delicious.

Other meats are a mixed bag. St. Louis-style ribs ($11.45 half rack, $19.85 full rack) are under-cooked and a little tough, but they’re fairly meaty and have a pleasant flavor, thanks in great part to the sauce.

The sauce also comes to the rescue of smoked chicken ($8.85), which is slightly on the dry side. Hot links ($8.85), sliced lengthwise, have a spiciness that gradually builds without overpowering.

Sandwiches and lunch entrees include choice of side and bread, while dinners include an additional side. Options include barbecue beans, collard greens, potato salad, macaroni salad and cornbread muffins, all serviceable if unremarkable.

Service is friendly, but a work in progress. The counter person has to ask for help several times while punching my order into the computer. I get cornbread instead of the dinner roll I request. Worst of all, the small sweet potato pie ($2.35) I order for dessert is forgotten.

Ultimately, I wouldn’t drive across the East Valley — past Joe’s and Waldo’s and Cooper’s — for Hickory Ridge’s barbecue. But I’ll definitely stop in again when I’m in the area.

HICKORY RIDGE BBQ
Where: 21805 S. Ellsworth Road, Queen Creek (northeast corner of Ellsworth and Ocotillo roads)
Open: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday
Prices: Sandwiches $5.95, lunch combos $$5.95-$8.95, dinner combos $8.85-$19.85, sides $1.65-$4.45, desserts $2.35.
Info: (480) 987-3995 or hickoryridgebbq.com.

First Taste reviews are based on initial visits to new East Valley restaurants. Full reviews are written after multiple visits, usually over a period of several weeks, after the restaurant has been open at least a couple months.