With an impeccably presented Asian-Italian fusion menu and refined urban chic decor, Grill Square is one of those stylish eateries often found in see-and-be-seen hot spots like Scottsdale, Aspen and L.A.

So what the heck is it doing in Mesa?

And at Fiesta Mall, no less?

I know. I find it hard to believe, too. I’ve been eating out in Mesa for more than two decades, and I’ve never seen such a trendy restaurant in Arizona’s third-largest city.

Now that I think about it, I’ve also never seen “Mesa” and “trendy” in the same sentence, at least without the words “is not” between them.

And yet, last month, Grill Square opened next to Sears, just inside the northeast entrance of the 28-year-old mall, setting its sights on raising the city’s dining reputation.

The restaurant’s interior, mostly metal gray and natural wood with accents of black and burnt orange, oozes sophistication. To the left, sunlight pours through a glass garage door onto a sleek bar. To the right, a grill counter fronts an open-air kitchen.

In the dining area, large booths accommodate up to six people. Linen napkins in heavy metal rings and triangular salt and pepper shakers rest on translucent green tabletops.

Techno music pulses from overhead speakers as the young, attractive staff — dressed all in black, of course — attend to diners.

Chef Donald Rini’s signature Asian grill dishes range from misoyaki pork to satay chicken to Tahi chili shrimp, all served kabob-style.

I try the teriyaki beef and caramelized peppers ($12), two skewers accompanied by rice cakes, sauteed leeks and a full head of roasted garlic. When the server hears I like spicy food, she produces a dish of “atomic” tomato sauce that jazzes up the beef even more.

The seared tuna sandwich ($14) proves to be a whopper serving of sesame-encrusted ahi tuna topped with avocado and wasabi crème fraiche. Although the menu doesn’t mention it, it comes with a large bowl of french fries.

The smoked chicken pasta ($12) — large slices of chicken, bow-tie pasta and a medley of vegetables in a zinfandel wine sauce — is OK, but the least impressive of the entrees I sample.

On the other hand, the Thai chicken pizza ($10) is the standout. Large enough for two, the pie is loaded with seasoned poultry, crunchy jicama, micro greens and mozzarella. A tangy peanut sauce, which comes on the side, elevates the pizza from good to great.

As I prepare to leave, I’m given small cards promoting Grill Square’s bar, which offers great happy hour prices, as well as nightly drink specials. There’s even a DJ on some nights.

A trendy nightclub in Mesa? I can hardly believe it.

Grill Square
Where: 1445 W. Southern Ave., Mesa (inside Fiesta Mall)
Open: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Prices: Appetizers $3-$12, salads $6-$12, Asian grill dishes $12-$16, pastas $10-$15, pizzas $9-$12, sandwiches/burgers $8-$14, desserts $6.
Info: (480) 964-0404