There aren’t many restaurants in the East Valley where you can get a great meal and a glass of wine at 1:30 a.m., especially on weeknights. But that small list has grown by one, thanks to Centro Paninoteca.

Opened in May by chef-owner Chris Cottingham, the former general manager of trendy Phoenix burger bar Delux, Centro doesn’t look like much at first glance.

Tucked next to Scottsdale country bar Handlebar J, Cottingham’s eatery takes up less than 900 square feet — barely big enough for eight tiny tables, a five-stool bar and a small counter by the door.

What it lacks in size, though, it more than makes up for with atmosphere.

The dark wood furniture, dark brown floors and dark ceiling make Centro look … well, dark — even during the day. At night, though, small candles at each table are reflected off a row of mirrors on the wall, basking the entire space in a warm glow.

An eclectic mix of house music creates a nice vibe, playing loud enough not to be lost in the background but not so loud as to make conversation difficult.

And the staff? Attentive, friendly and knowledgeable. Cottingham himself is likely to wander over and strike up a conversation.

Of course, all of this atmosphere means little without the food to match. Centro has no worries there: It offers a wonderful array of appetizers and panini sandwiches until 2 a.m. every day except Sunday.

The half-dozen starters include a delectable salmon carpaccio ($10), a hefty plate of smoked salmon, baby arugula, capers and red onion, and a scrumptious ceviche ($9.50) with shrimp, tomato, cilantro, onion, sweet peas and lime.

Aside from three salads, the rest of the menu consists of paninis (10 so far) and a daily market sandwich. You can’t go wrong with any of them.

My favorite is the Italian press ($8.50), long, thick slices of spicy pepperoni and salami topped with a zesty tomato sauce, mozzarella, Parmesan and rosemary.

Or maybe the chicken panini ($9.50), a marinated chicken breast with roasted red pepper and tomato, mozzarella, baby arugula and pesto mayo.

Or perhaps the grilled Gorgonzola and fig on sourdough ($7).

In other words, I’m looking forward to trying them all.

All the sandwiches come with cayenne- and cumin-laced Terra sweet-potato chips.

As for wine, Centro offers 18 reds and whites, most from Italy, by the glass for $7 to $12. Daily specials are as little as $5 per glass.

It’s easy to see why hip and affordable Centro is fast becoming a favorite hangout of the culinary crowd.

Just be sure to save me a bar stool.

Centro Paninoteca
Where: 7120 E. Becker Lane, Scottsdale (northwest of Scottsdale Road
and Shea Boulevard)
Hours: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Saturday
Prices: Appetizers $3-$10; salads $5.50-$8; paninis $7-$9.50
Info: (480) 443-7162 or centropaninoteca.com