(First Taste reviews are based on initial visits to new East Valley restaurants. Full reviews are written after multiple visits, usually over a period of several weeks, after the restaurant has been open at least a couple months.)

EAST VALLEY RANGE WAR: CADILLAC RANCH VS. SADDLE RANCH

In a state whose history is filled with Wild West range wars, two new “ranches” are waging their own modern-day showdown in the East Valley. At stake: watering and grazing rights for a herd of cash-flush 20- and 30-somethings.

The first group of newcomers, pioneers from California, appeared on the horizon in mid-January and erected Saddle Ranch Chophouse, a barn-like structure (shown above) on Scottsdale Road in Old Town Scottsdale.

Four weeks later, a second band of settlers — these from back East — established Cadillac Ranch (shown below) on the south bank of the Salt River in the booming community known as Tempe Marketplace.

At first glance, their two spreads look remarkably similar:

• Both have cavernous interiors and good-sized patios.

• Both offer a menu emphasizing burgers, steaks and ribs.

• Both are more restaurant during the day, drawing an all-ages crowd, but turn into packed nightclubs for young adults after sundown.

• Both feature a mix of country and rock ‘n’ roll music.

• Both have a mechanical bull.

But when I decide to swing by both camps and check out their chow wagons, that’s where the two “ranches” part ways.

First up is Saddle Ranch, where a young saloon gal with tattoos running up her arm and a short jean skirt sliding down her backside seats us at a sun-bathed patio table next to a roaring fire pit on an 80-degree afternoon.

A cowboy burger ($8.99) is adequate enough, although a large skillet of sweet potato casserole with candied pecans and a thick layer of melted marshmallows makes a better dessert than side dish.

Pork ribs ($16.99, shown at left), greasy with a too-thin barbecue sauce, come with over-seasoned garlic mashed potatoes and over-cooked broccoli. A peanut butter and banana sandwich on grilled sourdough ($5.99) is flat and lifeless.

A breakfast menu, available until 3 p.m., yields artery-clogging biscuit bacon cheeseburgers ($8.99) — that’s plural, two patties — with runny gravy, four eggs and cold, chewy hash browns.

To be fair, I count about 60 items on Saddle Ranch’s breakfast menu and another 50 on the lunch menu, so maybe you can find something you’ll like.

That proves to be no problem when we visit Cadillac Ranch, where the décor is less rustic — Rolling Stone covers instead of farm implements adorn the walls — and the staff is nowhere near as trailer-trashy.

The menu isn’t as large and the prices are slightly higher than at Saddle Ranch, but the food is much better.

The Tempe burger ($10.75, pictured at right), a half-pound patty with pepper jack cheese and plenty of jalapenos, is juicy and not too spicy. Another winner is the Southwest-flavored Arizona cheesesteak ($10.75). Both come with fries.

We also enjoy the five-piece Southwest egg roll ($8.75), part of the appetizers menu but a meal by itself. Entrees include a simple if unspectacular meatloaf with mashed potatoes and green beans ($15.75).

Cadillac Ranch has a decided edge on Saddle Ranch when it comes to chow, but both so far have been drawing huge crowds at nights, mostly for the drinking and socializing.

For now, at least, this Valley appears big enough for both of them.

>> Cadillac Ranch, 2000 E. Rio Salado Parkway, Tempe, is open 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to 3 a.m. Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. Saturday, closed Sunday. (480) 894-1111.

>> Saddle Ranch Chophouse, 4321 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, is open
8 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. daily. (480) 429-2263.