Sometime between a million and a million-and-a-half years ago, most likely in Africa or Asia, man discovered he could use fire to cook meat.

Paleoanthropologists have no way of pinpointing the exact time and place, of course, but this much is reasonably certain: Thirty minutes later, man discovered he could burn meat.

Thus began man’s hunt for the perfectly cooked piece of prehistoric mammal — and our idolization of those who, using only wood and fire, transform dead animal flesh into gastronomic grandeur.

Fortunately for modern-day East Valley meat lovers, we’re blessed with accomplished barbecue joints, ranging from national chains, such as Famous Dave’s, to local gems, such as Joe’s, Waldo’s and Honey Bear’s.

Big City BBQ is a relative newcomer (photos). Its original small space — ironically next to vegan-friendly Whole Foods Market in a Tempe strip mall — opened in 2004, but is no longer in business.

However, a second, much larger location that opened in 2005 near Fiesta Mall in Mesa is thriving. It’s here where I picked up the trail on a midday hunt for pulled pork and beef brisket.

I’m pleasantly surprised to find Big City offers a combination sliders plate — four small barbecue sandwiches: one each with pulled pork, hot links, chicken and beef brisket — for $9.50. It gives me a chance to try all four meats.

The sandwiches are bigger than I expected, and they arrive with Big City’s two Midwest-style barbecue sauces, original and hot, on the side. I prefer the original, but you can’t go wrong with either.

Not that you even need the dark, thick sauce. Big City’s meats, dry-rubbed with spices and smoked with pecan wood, are moist and delicious on their own. The hot links end up being my favorite, followed closely by the chicken.

I also enjoy the rib tips sandwich ($7.95), which comes on white bread.

Big City serves up a bunch of Southern-style sides ($2.99), and on this visit I try four of them. The mixed greens are fresh and flavorful. The fried okra, baked beans and mac ’n’ cheese, on the other hand, are just average.

When it comes to desserts ($3.99), though, Big City really shines. The peach cobbler is piping hot and packed with big slices of succulent peaches. The sweet potato pie, more brightly orange than most I’ve tried, is equally delectable.

For those looking for something out of the ordinary, try an order of the sugar biscuits — 10 deep-fried pieces of dough coated with granulated sugar.

Early hominids never had it so good. It may have taken man 1,000-plus millenniums to master meat, but Big City proves it’s been worth the wait.

Big City BBQ
Where: 1425 S. Alma School Road, Mesa (just north of U.S. 60)
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, noon to
10 p.m. Saturday, noon to 8 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: Sandwiches $6.75-$9.75, dinners $9.95-$16.95, spareribs racks $21.95, sides $2.99, desserts $3.99.
Info: (480) 844-1010 or bigcitybbq.com