American Indian fry bread can be eaten in many different ways, and Arizona Native Frybread, a strip-mall restaurant on east Main Street in Mesa, showcases many of them.

Fry bread, made by frying a flat piece of dough in oil, can be eaten as is; for instance, as an accompaniment to a bowl of Navajo hominy stew.

Or it can be filled with meat, vegetables and cheese to make a sandwich or taco. It even can be a dessert, topped with honey, powdered sugar, jelly or chocolate.

The mood: The decor of Arizona Native Frybread is modest and clean. A couple of Indian photos and posters, a calendar and a few other knickknacks hang on the gold and sage green walls.

A rack of Navajo Times stands beside the back counter, where we place our order, pay and take a seat at one of a dozen four-top tables.

The food: We try the green chili meat taco ($7.19, shown on right), a plate-sized piece of fry bread topped with green chili shredded beef, diced tomatoes and red onions and shredded lettuce and cheese. We fold it over and eat it like a soft taco. It’s tasty, and only mildly spicy.

Even better is the egg-and-Spam sandwich ($5.99, shown on left), which comes with large, fried chunks of the canned meat product folded into the fluffy egg filling. It’s a good-sized meal for breakfast or lunch.

Not that you’d want to eat this treat too often. Fry bread — at around 700 calories and close to 30 grams of fat for a plate-sized piece — isn’t the type of food your personal trainer is going to endorse.

The drinks: We get a couple of fountain sodas ($1.59), which we fill ourselves.

The damage: $17.68. If you’re willing to go over budget to feed your sweet tooth, the dessert fry bread ($5.29) covered with ice cream, chocolate syrup, cinnamon and powdered sugar is a must-have, and it’s rich enough for several people to share.

>> Arizona Native Frybread, 1437 E. Main St., Mesa, is open 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. (480) 649-1314.