Toby Keith isn’t who you probably think he is. And, more than likely, neither is his new restaurant, Toby’s Keith’s I Love This Bar & Grill, at Mesa Riverview.
The former oil-field-worker-turned-semi-pro-football-player-turned-country-music-superstar is a favorite of Red State America, thanks in great part to his enthusiastic 2004 support of President Bush and his ultra-patriotic songs like “Courtesy of the Red, White & Blue (The Angry American).”
But, as Keith readily admits, he’s long been a registered Democrat, one who thinks this country should never have gone to war in Iraq.
Similarly, it’s easy to scan the menu, backed by embroidered saddle leather, at I Love This Bar & Grill, named for Keith’s 2003 hit song, and draw certain conclusions based on its fried bologna sandwiches, deep-fried macaroni and cheese and deep-fried Twinkies (pictured below).
Dig a little deeper, though, and there’s more to his 20,000-square-foot establishment than first meets the eye. That’s understandable: It’s hard to take in all at once.
Able to accommodate nearly 700 people, ILTB&G has to be the biggest restaurant in Mesa. An 85-foot-long island bar, shaped like a guitar and manned by a half-dozen bartenders, dominates the center of the space.
At one end of the building is the main dining area with faux-snakeskin booths and four-top tables with branded wood chairs; at the other end, a large stage looks out on a railed-off dance floor.
There are a lot of other attractions in between, including a glass-enclosed VIP room with private bar, two private dining rooms that look like large garden sheds and a mechanical bull appropriately named “Toby.”
And to mark the occasion of your visit, a spacious gift shop sells not only shirts and hats, but all other things Toby, such as belt buckles, playing cards and sets of album-themed shot glasses.
Most, if not all, the hostesses and servers seem to be friendly young women clad in short denim skirts or Daisy Dukes, toting 32-ounce draft beers in Mason jars.
It’s easy to see why ILTB&G already is drawing huge crowds on weekends. Over-sized, country-themed bars (like the recently opened Cadillac Ranch in Tempe and Saddle Ranch Chophouse in Scottsdale) are very popular right now with the 20- and 30-something nightlifers.
As for the food at ILTB&G, I’ve only tried a handful of dishes.
The “She’s a Hottie” Hatch chile burger is flame-grilled with a nice smoky flavor. It comes, of course, with “Freedom Fries.” On one visit, the fries had a nice, garlicky taste; on another occasion, they were just plain.
I wasn’t impressed with the Toby’s Platter ($12.99), a guitar-shaped wire basket of mostly flavorless starters, including the aforementioned man ‘n’ cheese balls, non-breaded chicken wings, jalapeno poppers, nachos and fried mozzarella sticks.
And the three sauces provided – barbecue, Southwest ranch and blue cheese (which seemed more like mayo) – didn’t seem to complement any of the items.
On the other hand, I did like the signature pulled pork sandwich topped with creamy cole slaw ($8.99). And I was surprised to discover I really liked the fried bologna sandwich ($9.99, pictured above), made with a half-inch-thick slab of meat, Miracle Whip and American cheese on garlic toast.
I’ll be back to try some of the comfort-food entrees, like chicken fried steak ($12.99), catfish ($11.99) or barbecued ribs ($12.99-$18.99).
I’m guessing Toby Keith’s I Love This Bar & Grill isn’t going to appeal to certain people no matter what. But try it for yourself before passing judgment.
The next time Keith sings, “How do you like me now?” the answer just might surprise you.
Toby Keith’s I Love This Bar & Grill
Where: 1065 N. Dobson Road, Mesa (next to Bass Pro Shop at Mesa Riverview)
Open: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. weekdays and 7 a.m. to 2 a.m. weekends
Prices: Breakfast entrees $7.99-$12.99, appetizers $5.99-$12.99, salads $4.99-$7.99, burgers and sandwiches $7.99-$12.99, dinner entrees $11.99-$22.99, desserts $4.99.
Info: (480) 844-8629 or tobykeithusa.com
(Photos by Ralph Freso, East Valley Tribune)
First Taste reviews are based on initial visits to new East Valley restaurants. Full reviews are written after multiple visits, usually over a period of several weeks, after the restaurant has been open at least a couple of months.
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