 Archive for May, 2009Latest restaurant closure: Sea Saw in ScottsdaleMay 29th, 2009, 5:15 pm by Jess HarterEven James Beard Award-winning chefs apparently aren’t immune to the recent rash of restaurant closures: New Times is reporting chef Nobuo Fukuda is closing Sea Saw in Old Town Scottsdale. The cozy Japanese spot will serve its final customers June 7. Last week it was chef James Porter’s Tapino. Over the weekend, it was Fine’s Cellar. Wednesday, it was El Chorro Lodge. Now, it’s Sea Saw. One wonders what will be next? 5 to try: Classes at E.V. restaurantsMay 28th, 2009, 10:33 pm by Jess HarterYou’ve undoubtedly heard the saying, “Give a man a fish, you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, you feed him for a lifetime.” It’s a nice sentiment, but what if you’re a guy who sells fish for a living? Such thoughts apparently aren’t deterring a growing number of East Valley restaurants that are instructing their customers how to make everything from espresso to sushi. Here are five to check out (seating is limited so all require reservations):
Urban Tea Loft: This downtown Chandler tea room offers a monthly “Tea 101” class taught by owner Glynis Legrand that covers the beverage types, health benefits, terminology and brewing techniques and concludes with a sampling of five different teas. A professional porcelain cupping set is included in the $35 cost. The next class is 2 p.m. June 14. Legrand is planning to add “Tea 102” (brewing and manufacturing) and “Culinary Tea” (cooking with tea) classes this summer. 11 W. Boston St., Chandler, (480) 786-9600. Digestif: Chef Payton Curry and “Pasta Princess” Elizabeth Meinz held their first pasta-making class at this hip eatery in Old Town Scottsdale two weeks ago. Now it’s morphed into an every-other-week “Sunday Skool.” From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. this Sunday, participants will learn how to make chicken and “dumplings” (gnocchi). The class also includes a pre-class Old Town Farmer’s Market tour with Curry at 8:30 a.m. Sunday’s class is $45; future classes will vary in focus and price. 7114 E. Stetson Drive, Scottsdale, (480) 425-9463. Roka Akor: This upscale Japanese restaurant, which recently was named one of the top 10 sushi spots in the country by Bon Appetit magazine, is launching a “Sushi Master Class” 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. June 13. The class, which will repeat the second Saturday of every month, includes hands-on sushi-making lessons from chef Roman Petry, recipes and sake pairings. Cost is $60. Roka Akor also offers a “Robata 101 Class,” where guests learn how to prepare foods on an open-flame Robata grill, the fourth Saturday of every month. 7299 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, (480) 306-8800. Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse: Both East Valley locations will offer a “Grilling Seminar” from 1 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. June 13 and again June 27. The restaurant’s chefs will discuss various cuts of meat, and then participants will receive hands-on instructions at the grill. Afterward, they will sample three cuts — the filet, New York strip and ribeye — and Fleming’s wine managers will suggest wine pairings. The seminars are $10. 905 N. 54th St., Chandler, (480) 940-1900; 6333 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, (480) 596-8265. Toby Keith to attend restaurant grand opening WednesdayMay 27th, 2009, 8:44 pm by Jess Harter
The giant restaurant and bar, named after a 2003 hit song by Keith, actually opened in mid-April. The singer will take part in a press conference at 4 p.m. Wednesday, followed by an invitation-only VIP party at 5 p.m. The venue will open to the public at 8 p.m. Read my First Taste of the restaurant here. Toby Keith’s I Love This Bar & Grill, 1065 N. Dobson Road, Mesa, is open 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. weekdays and 7 a.m. to 2 a.m. weekends. Info: (480) 844-8629 or tobykeithusa.com. More E.V. restaurant closings: El Chorro, Fine’s CellarMay 27th, 2009, 8:33 am by Jess Harter
Is the faltering economy finally catching up to the Valley’s restaurant scene? I was surprised the first four months of 2009 brought relatively few high-profile restaurant closings — certainly no more than years past and perhaps even fewer than usual. But the true test, many experts predicted, would come when seasonal visitors departed and summer arrived. They may be right. Last week, James Porter closed his acclaimed Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar in Scottsdale. Going into the weekend, the Republic reported Paradise Valley landmark El Chorro Lodge was being shut down. Today, New Times is reporting Fine’s Cellar, wine guru Michael Fine’s bistro (pictured above) in Old Town Scottsdale, is kaput. Those inclined to see the glass half-full will point out that, while the economy surely played a large role, Porter also blamed an ongoing dispute with Tapino’s landlord. (He’s preparing to open a new restaurant in downtown Scottsdale this summer.) El Chorro has been sold, but the new owners haven’t announced their plans for the 22 acres of prime real estate. Tapino, El Chorro, Fine’s. All gone is just over a week. Coincidence or the beginning of a trend? Trophy’s Steakhouse: Call of the wildMay 26th, 2009, 9:48 pm by Jess Harter
I think it’s safe to say diners have never seen, and probably never will see, another Valley restaurant with the décor of Trophy’s Steakhouse. Owner Kevin Dettler is an elite big-game hunter — one of fewer than 120 people in the world who’ve bagged the Safari Club International’s “North American 29,” all the big-game species found on the continent. And all 29 of the part-time Gilbert resident’s trophies — from bison to polar bear to musk ox — are on display at Trophy’s, which opened last month on the northeast corner of Power and Rittenhouse roads in Queen Queek. Everywhere you look in the elegant restaurant, there are horns, claws and teeth. In the center of the 3,000-square-foot dining room, five huge bears stalk diners. Behind the polished granite bar, four majestic sheep keep watch on a rocky outcropping.
Given the opulent surroundings, Trophy’s prices are surprisingly affordable. You won’t find any $175 Japanese Kobe steaks here. With the exception of a special 24-ounce bone-in ribeye ($37), all of the 6- to 12-ounce premium steaks are less than $25. And that includes baked potato and vegetable. “We weren’t sure what we wanted to do with the wild game,” says Dettler’s son Kiel (pictured above on right), who runs Trophy’s with his brother, Brett (pictured on left), while their parents spend summers back on the family farm near Aberdeen, S.D. “It can get rather expensive doing wild game. When you get into kangaroo and llama, you’re definitely looking at more money per ounce.” So the wild game is limited to a few regular menu items — such as buffalo and elk meatloaf ($13) and antelope sausage ($13) — and ever-changing weekend specials created by chef Rob Bowser. Last weekend’s special was red deer. This weekend, it’s rabbit.
The brothers are toying with future menu ideas ranging from bear to rattlesnake. So far, East Valley residents seem up for a taste of adventure. The filet and ribeye are Trophy’s two top sellers, but the buffalo and elk meatloaf is the third-most-popular item on the menu. Now if the Dettlers could just get curious diners to follow the “No Touching” signs and stop trying to pet the grizzly bear or gray wolf. “The kids are actually pretty good about it,” Kiel Dettler laughs. “The adults are the ones you have to watch.” Trophy’s Steakhouse (Photos by Tim Hacker, East Valley Tribune) Over Easy to host firefighters’ pancake breakfast SaturdayMay 26th, 2009, 3:50 pm by Jess Harter
Proceeds also will go toward the purchase of a new “Smoke House,” the trailer home that firefighters take to schools to simulate fires. Saturday morning’s activities will include fire truck tours, demonstrations using the current “Smoke House” and a firefighters’ pancake-eating contest at 8:45 a.m. Cost of the breakfast is $5 per person, which includes coffee, juice and milk. Seating is limited at Over Easy, 4031 N. 40th St., Phoenix, so diners are asked to RSVP by calling (480) 344-0156. Queensrÿche singer to appear at Chandler Whole FoodsMay 26th, 2009, 3:13 pm by Jess Harter
The 2007 bottling of Insania, a red Bordeaux blend, is nearly sold out nationwide. The only remaining bottles are available for $39.99 at the Chandler store. The 2008 Insania won’t be available until February 2010. Saturday’s signing will be on a first-come, first-served basis, with numbered tickets being handed out starting at 9 a.m. Approximately 40 cases of Insania remain, but there will be a limit of six bottles per person. Fans are asked not to bring any other items for Tate to sign. Queensrÿche performs Saturday night at Dodge Theatre in downtown Phoenix. The Chandler Whole Foods, 2955 W. Ray Road, is located on the southeast corner of Ray Road and the Loop 101. Info: (480) 821-9447 or wholefoodsmarket.com. Nello’s founder to open ‘classic’ pizzeria in PhoenixMay 21st, 2009, 10:01 am by Jess HarterDan Mei, one of four brothers who launched the popular Nello’s Pizza restaurants in the East Valley, is opening a Phoenix pizzeria called The Parlor on Monday. The Parlor, which takes over the longtime Salon de Venus beauty parlor at Camelback Road and 20th Street, is co-owned by Mei and his son, Aric, who also co-own the Nello’s in Ahwatukee.
Artisanal pizzas are $8 for 8-inch and $12 for 12-inch. Salads and homemade pastas come in two sizes: individual portions ($5-$11.50) and larger portions meant to be shared ($10-$21). Click here to see menu pdf. Aric Mei, an artist, designed the restaurant and tried to retain much of the 50-year-old structure’s classic feel. A portion of the building was demolished, but materials were recycled. Wood from the roof was turned into tables and a sprinkler system was converted into wine racks. The Parlor, 1916 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday (Sunday hours eventually will be added). Info: (602) 248-2480 or theparlor.us. Restaurant review: The Landmark RestaurantMay 19th, 2009, 10:35 pm by Jess Harter
The Landmark Restaurant certainly lives up to its name. In a populace-come-lately metropolitan area where “historical” often is used to describe any structure built before 1980, the red building on the southwest corner of Main Street and Extension Road in Mesa began life as a Mormon church in 1908. More than a century later, the complex — the original building was joined by a recreational hall in the 1920s and a smaller meeting hall in the ‘30s — has gone through several incarnations. In 1963, it housed Phoenix College’s first Mesa branch, which later became Mesa Community College. Since 1972, though, it’s been a restaurant, one that embraces its heritage. Credit New Hampshire natives Don and Candy Ellis, who took over what was then called Roach’s Schoolhouse Restaurant in 1981 and have lovingly restored and maintained it as The Landmark.
Blue-and-white porcelain-ware and oversized floral arrangements decorate the dark wood shelves and hutches. Faux windows are covered by white lace curtains. Five ornate chandeliers hang from the high ceiling. This is definitely your grandparents’ type of restaurant. Which is why, I suppose, the menu caters to that demographic. Can you think of another East Valley restaurant that offers beef stroganoff ($13.95)? It’s just one of the many traditional comfort foods available, along with braised pot roast ($14.75), stuffed meatloaf ($14.25), chicken Kiev ($17.25), pork tenderloin ($15.25) … you get the idea.
The big draw at The Landmark, though, is the salad bar, which takes up an entire room. In the days before Souper Salad and Sweet Tomatoes arrived, this was the Valley’s biggest salad bar. Today, it remains one of the most diverse. Quail eggs? Check. Pickled watermelon? Yep. Prickly pear cactus. Sure. Along with about 75 other items, ranging from chili to meatballs to cinnamon rolls. The salad bar ($9.95 at lunch, $14 at dinner) easily can serve as a meal by itself. But I also add it (for an extra $6) whenever I order a sandwich or entrée. The price is a bit steep for an add-on, but I’d rather take home some leftover entrée than miss out. The Landmark Restaurant (Photos by Darryl Webb, East Valley Tribune) Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar closes in ScottsdaleMay 19th, 2009, 10:26 pm by Jess Harter
After five years, owner-chef James Porter has closed Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar (pictured above), citing a combination of the economic recession and ongoing disputes with the Scottsdale Promenade restaurant’s landlord. “The economy has changed,” he says. “It’s a huge space, 5,600 square feet. I needed to put it to sleep, but it had good times and good memories in it.” For Porter, one of the pioneers of the Valley’s local food movement, those memories will include several popular “locavore” dinners hosted by the small-plates eatery, a steady stream of fun events (such as last week’s wine dinner featuring boxed wines) and some unusual dishes (such as his homemade foie gras ice cream).
“We’re starting on construction next week,” he says. “All the permits are finally passed and we’re ready to rumble.” Porter hopes to open his new place, which takes over the former Baby Kay’s space in downtown Scottsdale, by July 14, which is the French national holiday Bastille Day. “The price point is extremely affordable,” he says. “Although Tapino was an amazing value, I think, for the creativity, this is going to be more approachable.” Expect appetizers around $6, entrees from $14 to $19 and desserts for $6, Porter says, Petite Maison (French for “small home” — it’s just 1,500 square feet, compared to Tapino’s 5,600) will offer lunch, dinner and a “weekend marketplace.” But Porter is most excited about a late-night menu. “We’re gonna do a late-night ‘underground’ menu that will really focus on the hospitality field — the cooks and the chefs — that will be starting at 11 o’clock at night and go to 3 o’clock in the morning,” he says. “A very cool (menu) — roasted bone marrow with toast – things that cooks and chefs like to eat. And foodies that really like something crazy and different.” (this post updated May 20, 2009) Streets of New York takes over Bravis in ChandlerMay 19th, 2009, 11:54 am by Jess HarterValley-based Streets of New York, which offers pizzas, pastas, subs and salads, continues to expand. Just weeks after taking over the former Bravi Italian Kitchen space at Chandler Crossroads on the northwest corner of Germann and Gilbert roads, the chain also has taken over another former Bravi space on the northeast corner of Alma School and Chandler Heights roads. The openings give Streets of New York, which debuted in 1976, more than 30 locations, including 11 in the East Valley. Flavors of Phoenix is Thursday at Westin KierlandMay 19th, 2009, 11:37 am by Jess HarterFlavors of Phoenix 2009, a high-end annual fundraiser for the American Liver Foundation, will be held Thursday at the Westin Kierland Resort & Spa in north Scottsdale. Christopher Gross, who created the Valley’s version of the nationwide event, is one of 30 Valley chefs who will be preparing five-course feasts for tables of 12. Others include Michael DeMaria, Matt Carter, Nobuo Fukuda, Lee Hillson and Aaron May. Individual dinner tickets are $350; tickets for a 6 p.m. reception are $75.
Costa Vida to open Wednesday in Queen CreekMay 19th, 2009, 11:25 am by Jess HarterCosta Vida, a fast-casual, Baja-inspired restaurant chain out of Salt Lake City, is scheduled to open its second Arizona location Wednesday in Queen Creek. The chain has operated a Mesa location for several years at Dana Park on the northwest corner of Val Vista Drive and Baseline Road. The latest location, 21152 E. Rittenhouse Road, is just east of Ellsworth Road. Info: (480) 888-7230. To celebrate the opening, Costa Vida is mailing coupons for a free burrito to Q.C. residents. 5 to try: East Valley barbecue restaurantsMay 14th, 2009, 5:00 pm by Jess Harter
May is National BBQ Month. Although several well-known East Valley barbecue restaurants have closed recently — including Big City in Mesa, Cooper’s in Gilbert and Hickory Ridge in Queen Creek — there still are plenty of places to enjoy Texas-style, Tennessee-style or other regional flavors. Here are five of my favorite E.V. joints where you can pig out on pig (as well as other meats): Joe’s Real BBQ: Co-owners Joe Johnston and Tad Peelan have been drawing Texas-style barbecue fans to downtown Gilbert’s historic district for 11 years. More than 6,000 people waited in long lines last week for free pecan-smoked meat sandwiches on its annual Customer Appreciation Day. 301 N. Gilbert Road, Gilbert, (480) 503-3805. Waldo’s BBQ: Clay Caldwell, who grew up on a pig farm in Snowflake, opened signage-decorated Waldo’s in 1993, and former CEO-turned-co-owner Frank Estadt launched a second location in Gilbert in 2007. 4500 E. Main St., Mesa, (480) 807-1645; 2743 S. Market St., Gilbert, (480) 899-7427. Tom’s Chicago-Style BBQ: Former Chicago restaurateur Tom Ryan opened his first East Valley barbecue joint in 1988. Besides smoked meats, the menu offers a lot of Windy City favorites, such as Italian beef sandwiches and Polish sausages. Four locations in Tempe, Mesa and Chandler. Urban Campfire: Chef and co-owner Robert Stempkowski has left this 22-month-old smokehouse located next to Arizona State University, but his menu of St. Louis-style pork ribs, smoked chicken wraps and barbecue sliders remains. 921 E. University Drive, Tempe, (480) 967-5524. Honey Bear’s BBQ: Former Scottsdale Community College football players Gary Clark and Mark Smith, childhood friends from Iowa, opened their first Honey Bear’s on Van Buren Street in 1986. Today, they’re serving their Tennessee-style ‘que out of three locations. 7670 S. Priest Drive, Tempe, (480) 222-2782; two Phoenix locations. First Taste: Toby Keith’s I Love This Bar & GrillMay 12th, 2009, 5:00 pm by Jess Harter
Toby Keith isn’t who you probably think he is. And, more than likely, neither is his new restaurant, Toby’s Keith’s I Love This Bar & Grill, at Mesa Riverview. The former oil-field-worker-turned-semi-pro-football-player-turned-country-music-superstar is a favorite of Red State America, thanks in great part to his enthusiastic 2004 support of President Bush and his ultra-patriotic songs like “Courtesy of the Red, White & Blue (The Angry American).” But, as Keith readily admits, he’s long been a registered Democrat, one who thinks this country should never have gone to war in Iraq. Similarly, it’s easy to scan the menu, backed by embroidered saddle leather, at I Love This Bar & Grill, named for Keith’s 2003 hit song, and draw certain conclusions based on its fried bologna sandwiches, deep-fried macaroni and cheese and deep-fried Twinkies (pictured below).
Able to accommodate nearly 700 people, ILTB&G has to be the biggest restaurant in Mesa. An 85-foot-long island bar, shaped like a guitar and manned by a half-dozen bartenders, dominates the center of the space. At one end of the building is the main dining area with faux-snakeskin booths and four-top tables with branded wood chairs; at the other end, a large stage looks out on a railed-off dance floor. There are a lot of other attractions in between, including a glass-enclosed VIP room with private bar, two private dining rooms that look like large garden sheds and a mechanical bull appropriately named “Toby.” And to mark the occasion of your visit, a spacious gift shop sells not only shirts and hats, but all other things Toby, such as belt buckles, playing cards and sets of album-themed shot glasses. Most, if not all, the hostesses and servers seem to be friendly young women clad in short denim skirts or Daisy Dukes, toting 32-ounce draft beers in Mason jars.
As for the food at ILTB&G, I’ve only tried a handful of dishes. The “She’s a Hottie” Hatch chile burger is flame-grilled with a nice smoky flavor. It comes, of course, with “Freedom Fries.” On one visit, the fries had a nice, garlicky taste; on another occasion, they were just plain. I wasn’t impressed with the Toby’s Platter ($12.99), a guitar-shaped wire basket of mostly flavorless starters, including the aforementioned man ‘n’ cheese balls, non-breaded chicken wings, jalapeno poppers, nachos and fried mozzarella sticks. And the three sauces provided – barbecue, Southwest ranch and blue cheese (which seemed more like mayo) – didn’t seem to complement any of the items. On the other hand, I did like the signature pulled pork sandwich topped with creamy cole slaw ($8.99). And I was surprised to discover I really liked the fried bologna sandwich ($9.99, pictured above), made with a half-inch-thick slab of meat, Miracle Whip and American cheese on garlic toast. I’ll be back to try some of the comfort-food entrees, like chicken fried steak ($12.99), catfish ($11.99) or barbecued ribs ($12.99-$18.99). I’m guessing Toby Keith’s I Love This Bar & Grill isn’t going to appeal to certain people no matter what. But try it for yourself before passing judgment. The next time Keith sings, “How do you like me now?” the answer just might surprise you. Toby Keith’s I Love This Bar & Grill (Photos by Ralph Freso, East Valley Tribune) First Taste reviews are based on initial visits to new East Valley restaurants. Full reviews are written after multiple visits, usually over a period of several weeks, after the restaurant has been open at least a couple of months. 5 to try: East Valley restaurants that mothers loveMay 7th, 2009, 8:59 pm by Jess Harter
Sunday is Mother’s Day, but your mom asked me to point out that any day of the year is good day to take her out for a nice meal (hint, hint). To get you started, here are five East Valley restaurants that she’s almost sure to love: T.C. Eggington’s: This country-kitchen-themed restaurant’s huge breakfast menu includes such specialties as French toast made with cinnamon bread dipped in custard batter and crab-stuffed pastries. Among the salads for lunch: Italian Parmesan Chicken and Tuna Apple-Walnut. 1660 S. Alma School Road, Mesa, (480) 345-9288. Crackers & Co. Café: For 25 years, this off-the-beaten-path café has been making dishes from scratch, from its scones and European-style crepes for breakfast to its fruited chicken salad and baked potato soup for lunch. 535 W. Iron Ave., Mesa, (480) 898-1717; 1325 N. Greenfield Road, Mesa, (480) 924-9977; 1285 W. Elliot Road, Tempe, (480) 705-7900. Landmark Restaurant: Formerly a Mormon church, this 100-year-old structure now is home to a variety of old-fashioned comfort foods, such as stuffed meatloaf, beef stroganoff and chicken-fried steak. A huge salad bar, offering everything from ambrosia to quail eggs, takes up an entire room. 809 W. Main St., Mesa, (480) 962-4652. Liberty Market: This 70-year-old Gilbert grocery store was renovated last year and now serves griddled bread pudding and biscuits and gravy for breakfast, and wood-fired pizzas and farm-fresh sandwiches and salads for lunch and dinner. It also has a 10-seat espresso bar. 230 N. Gilbert Road, Gilbert, (480) 892-1900. Del Piero: Queen Creek Olive Mill’s Tuscan-inspired eatery features omelets and paninis made with local produce and meats from the nearby Pork Shop. After eating, you can browse the retail shelves for olives, olive oils, vinegars, nuts and other products. 25062 S. Meridian Road, Queen Creek, (480) 888-9290. Joe’s Real BBQ free food day draws record 6,184May 6th, 2009, 9:52 pm by Jess Harter
Joe’s Real BBQ’s 10th annual Customer Appreciation Day proved to be its most popular to date: The downtown Gilbert restaurant handed out free barbecue meals Wednesday to a record 6,184 people. The previous record, set last year, was 5,358. From 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 8 p.m., people received a choice of sandwich (pulled pork or chopped brisket), barbecue pit beans, cole slaw and a drink. The line varied from fewer than 100 people at times to more than 850 people during the dinner hour (see photos of the longest line), but moved at a clip of more than 700 people served each hour. Co-owner Tad Peelen reports the restaurant went through approximately 4,500 pounds of smoked meat and 1,800 quarts of sides. More photos (click each to enlarge):
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The exterior still looks like a church. But through the heavy wooden door and up 12 stairs, entering the dining room is like walking into a Victorian-era parlor. The dark blue and green colors and floral-like design of the old-fashioned carpet are continued on matching wallpaper and the chair upholstery.
It may not be adventurous cuisine, but dishes are made from scratch. The meats are quality cuts, preparations are near-perfect and portions are ample. Even sides — like sliced carrots glazed with maple syrup — are simple but delicious.
But don’t expect Porter (pictured) to be kicking up his heels. He’s already working on his next restaurant, Petite Maison, which he describes as a rustic French country bistro.
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