Love him or hate him — and there are plenty of East Valley diners in either camp — Sam Fox has a golden touch. The Scottsdale entrepreneur is a culinary King Midas whose fingerprints can be found on 28 successful restaurants spread across four states.

Despite a sour economy that seems to be swallowing worthwhile restaurants on an almost daily basis, Fox shows no signs of slowing down. In the past couple weeks, he’s opened another Sauce (his 10th) in Chandler, and debuted True Food Kitchen in Phoenix.

Most recently, he’s introduced Blanco Tacos & Tequila, his casual-chic Mexican brand that debuted last year in Tucson, to the Valley by taking over the former Taneko Japanese Tavern at the Borgata shopping center in Scottsdale.

• Check out the menu for Blanco Tacos + Tequila (pdf)

Anyone who visited Taneko will notice the atmosphere has been lightened considerably. The dark ceiling and its exposed beams have been painted white. The enormous iron spheres still hang over the bar, but their red paper has been stripped away.

Blanco’s trademark light-blue upholstry is everywhere, especially evident on a new patio (pictured above) that fronts Scottsdale Road. The sound system now pumps out high-energy club music as glamorous 20- and 30-somethings sip vanilla margaritas on the rocks ($9).

Without looking at the name on the building, you probably wouldn’t guess you entered a Mexican restaurant, at least not until you glance at the menu of what Blanco calls “reinterpreted” tacos, enchiladas and entrees.

Chips and salsa are a benchmark for any Mexican eatery, and Blanco’s score well. The chips, served hot, are light and puffy and not greasy at all. There’s just one sauce — no chunky option — but it’s flavorful. It’s quite easy to fill up while waiting for your meal.

Six cheese crisps — such as one with delicious roasted chicken and poblano chiles ($10) — are the featured starters. No yellow cheese here; instead, sprinklings of oaxaca, asadero and manchego.

A huge machaca burrito ($13) is a tasty bonanza of slightly spicy beef, rice, black beans, avocado, peppers, onions, pico de gallo and crèma fresca. Flavors are a little muddy in a bowl of chicken mole ($15), but roasted pumpkin seeds add a nice textural touch.

The big disappoinment of opening night are the beef enchiladas ($14, pictured above), which suffer from braised short rib meat that’s rubbery with fat.

Desserts like chocolate cake, flan (pictured below) and hot fudge sundaes (all $5), while adequate, certainly aren’t as inspired as, say, those at Blanco’s Mediterranean-themed sibling, Olive & Ivy.

Much like Olive & Ivy, Blanco likely will draw criticism from Valley gastronomes frustrated by Fox’s knack of pushing casual cuisine right up to the line of fine dining, but not crossing it in order to keep the food accessible to the masses.

For the many who enjoy his brands — which also include Bloom, North, Wildflower and Greene House — Blanco will be comfortable territory.

Blanco Tacos + Tequila
Where: The Borgata, 6166 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale (a quarter-mile north of McDonald Drive).
Open: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Prices: Appetizers $7-$12, soups/salads $7-$11, entrees $10-$20, desserts $3-$5.
Info: (480) 305-6692 or foxrc.com.

First Tastes offer first impressions of new East Valley restaurants. Full reviews, based on multiple visits, aren’t written until restaurants have been open at least a couple months.

Posted in: Blanco Tacos + Tequila • Scottsdale |

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