“Oxtail, huh?” one of my lunch companions says as he suspiciously eyes a small piece of the bony meat I’ve offered to share. “Uh, no thanks. I think I’ll stick with what I ordered.”

It’s his loss. The beef medallions (pictured at right), braised to draw maximum flavor from the bone and marrow, are delicious.

Then again, I suspect many East Valley diners are unaware of the remarkable diversity of Caribbean food, which counts French, African and Indian among its many influences.

It’s not entirely their fault. There isn’t exactly an abundance of Caribbean restaurants in the East Valley.

Fortunately, Damian Muir (pictured below) has increased that small number by one. The Jamaican-born chef and his wife, Elisa, recently opened their first restaurant, Caribbean Fusion, in the former Scottsdale Road strip-mall space vacated earlier this year by Twisted.

In true Caribbean tradition, my oxtail ($10) is served with butter beans and small dumplings called “spinners.” Brown rice and kidney beans are combined for a side that, despite the red beans, is commonly known as “peas and rice.”

A tall glass of tropical lemonade ($5) made with mango and strawberry puree adds a tart element to the meal.

One of my friends decides to pass on curry goat ($7.50) and instead go with the more familiar curry chicken ($8.50, pictured at left), not spicy but very flavorable. He’s a bit more adventurous with his side, slightly sweet Jamaican flatbread called bammy.

My other friend plays it completely safe with a tasty jerk burger ($7.95), a special of the day, which is topped with thin strips of bacon. It comes with a refreshing tropical salad featuring watermelon, pineapple and mango.

The daily lunch menu offers just eight items, but the dinner menu is more expansive. I’m especially looking forward to trying ackee and saltfish strudel ($4.50), an appetizer of dried codfish and red ackee fruit wrapped in phyllo dough.

The entrees lineup includes crawfish steamed in coconut milk ($15.50), a 14-ounce jerk T-bone steak ($28.50) and an eight-ounce lobster tail marinated in Caribbean spices ($29.50).

Desserts, for now, are ho-hum standards such as carrot cake and cheesecake, but Muir, who previously worked as sous-chef for the Camelback Inn’s Chaparral room, is planning to add Caribbean treats soon.

The restaurant’s decor also remains a work in progress. High- and low-backed padded booths offer a bit of comfortable privacy, but other tableclothed tables have been pulled away from a banquette, leaving a long bench along one wall with no particular purpose.

A dramatic, granite-topped bar with seating for eight dominates the back of the space. To one side, two chairs and a sofa form a small lounge area around a high-def TV.

Caribbean Fusion
Where: 2515 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale (between Thomas and Oak roads)
Open: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.
Prices: Appetizers $3.50-$6.50, salads $3.50-$6.50, pastas $12.50, entrees $8.50-$29.50, desserts $4.50
Info: (480) 990-1599

First Tastes offer first impressions of new East Valley restaurants. Full reviews, based on multiple visits, aren’t written until restaurants have been open at least a couple months.

• View a slideshow of Caribbean Fusion
• Check out Caribbean Fusion’s lunch menu

Posted in: Caribbean Fusion • Scottsdale |

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