Joan’s Kitchen feeds craving for Flint-style coneys Saturdays
May 7th, 2008, 2:58 pm · 10 Comments · posted by Jess Harter
For Jim Cummer, a Flint-style coney dog is part science and part art. The specifications are exacting, but when you get the ingredients just right …
“It’s a symphony of flavors and textures,” Cummer says.
And that symphony is playing in the East Valley, where Cummer and his wife, Solange, are serving Flint-style coneys — up to 50 an hour — every Saturday at their small restaurant, Joan’s Kitchen, on the southeast corner of Scottsdale and McKellips roads in Tempe.
So what’s a Flint-style coney, you ask?
You start with a hot dog. Not just any hot dog, mind you, but one made by Koegel Meat Company in Flint, Mich. “They’re real lean but flavorful,” Cummer says. Oh, and it must be grilled.
Next, place it in a bun, which must be steamed. Add dry, loose-meat coney sauce made without tomato or chili sauce and, of course, without beans. Top with onions — diced, not cut — and mustard. No ketchup. No relish. Nothing else.
Follow these instructions to the letter, and you’ll have the coney dog sold throughout downtown Flint when Jim Cummer was growing up there.
“The cool thing about Flint is the people work hard and play hard,” he says. “They have a great B.S. detector. If you don’t make the coneys exactly right, they’ll call you out. There’s no compromising.”
The Cummers, who had a record store in Ohio for the past two decades, moved to Arizona and took over Joan’s Kitchen when its longtime owner retired in December.
They added Flint-style coneys to the restaurant’s menu of simple sandwiches and entrees at the end of February. The coneys are $4 apiece; a combo meal of two coneys, fries and a drink is $7.75.
“Initially, it was like blowing kisses in the dark,” Jim Cummer admits. “Our intentions were good, but …”
Then, three weeks ago, the Flint newspaper published a story about the Tempe restaurant offering the city’s signature treat. Suddenly, Joan’s Kitchen, which is only open for lunch, is selling up to 100 coneys between 11 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. Saturdays.
Cummer says he’s negotiating with Koegel to get more hot dogs so he can offer the coneys every day.
Until then, he’s mixing up batches of coney sauce — which take more than three hours to make — every Thursday and Friday.
“That way, if I screw up on Thursday, I can make amends on Friday,” he says.
JOAN’S KITCHEN
Where: 1857 N. Scottsdale Road, Tempe (southeast corner of Scottsdale and McKellips roads)
Open: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday
Prices: Sandwiches $4-$7, salads $3.50-$7.50, entrees $7-$8.50, desserts $3.50
Info: (480) 946-1849
May 8th, 2008 at 9:41 am
I am not much of a hot dog person but those coney’s are amazing!!! Although I will say I much rather prefer the Sloppy Joe’s that are a one of a kind and currently served everyday at Joan’s. Try them both. Completely different than what us native Az’s are used too.
May 8th, 2008 at 3:15 pm
They are quite different from most other restaurants and very good. I would recommend them. The deserts there are homemade and also delicious.
May 8th, 2008 at 5:14 pm
COOL! That is great news! I am from Flint MI also. My family have all moved here. The one thing we miss the most? CONEYS…Koegels and coney sauce!
THANK YOU!
God IS good!
May 9th, 2008 at 5:36 am
My friends and I drove all the way down from Standish to get “2 UP.” It was worth the gas and the drive. There ain’t nothin’ like a Flint coney…well, except my wife after a hot bubble bath! LOL!
May 10th, 2008 at 6:54 pm
The Flintoids have come out of the wordwork. I can’t believe it! After reading the article in the paper - I just had to check this place out being from Flint and all. Today the place was packed and even though I had to wait a bit - it was worth it. I felt like I was at Angelo’s 20 years ago!! I’ll definitely be back!!! Keep ‘em comin’!
May 13th, 2008 at 9:35 am
Oh,my Gosh- Kogel Coney Dogs from Flint- Born and raised in Flint, Michigan Moved here 25 years ago from Flint- have missed coneys- Our first stop when going home to Flint for a visit is for a coney. Just nothing like them in the world. Now we have them in our own back yard. This is wonderful!! Thank you -
May 13th, 2008 at 11:11 am
done
May 20th, 2008 at 8:18 am
Hi. Greetings from Perrysburg, OH. Steve and I in the office just happen to be coney fanatics. Your ole’ friend Denny Austin said I should check out this article and stop in the next time we travel west. Great picture of the twins with just the right amount of onions. Good luck in your business. Hope to see you soon for one or most likely two Flint coneys sometime in the near future.
Regards,
JP
June 5th, 2008 at 5:51 pm
I must say I stopped by Joan’s Kitchen this past Saturday and fell in love with these coneys! We’re from Mt. Morris, Michigan and have been here for 18 years. Loved there homemade pinaapple crunch cake! Great little place and my husband George and I will be back. Thanks Mr. Cummer!!
July 27th, 2008 at 4:28 pm
born and raised in flint have been here 24 years. send home for koegels hot dogs and pickeled balogna accasionaly. going back next month. live on the west side of phoenix but will be coming to tempe for coneys. happy to have found you.