 Archive for November, 2007Rancho de Tia Rosa lights up the holidaysNovember 30th, 2007, 5:49 pm by Jess Harter
Tia Rosa’s annual display, which requires hundreds of hours to set up, is one of the most extensive among Valley restaurants. >> Rancho de Tia Rosa, 3129 E. McKellips Road, Mesa, is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. (480) 659-8787. Romeo’s Euro Cafe to highlight Kunde wines Dec. 17November 30th, 2007, 5:24 pm by Jess HarterSelections from Kunde Estate Winery in northern California’s Sonoma Valley will be featured at a food-and-wine pairing event Dec. 17 at Romeo’s Euro Cafe, the intimate eatery in downtown Gilbert.
- Grekchino (shredded lamb, carrots, dykon radish, roasted pine nuts filled spring rolls, with a honey balsamic apricot ginger sauce and cilantro lime sauce, pictured at left) with a 2005 Viognier; - Giacomo Cardin (romaine lettuce brushed with homemade Caesar dressing, topped with grape tomatoes, red and green onions and garlic croutons) with a 2005 Chardonnay; - Alphonsine Pommery (Cornish game hen over gnocchi with brussels sprouts, hominy, peppered bacon and Indian maiz) with a 2004 Zinfandel; - A dessert (revealed that evening) with a 2003 Syrah. The dinner starts at 6:30 p.m. and costs $45, not counting tax and gratuity. >> Romeo’s Euro Cafe, 207 N. Gilbert Road, Gilbert. (480) 962-4224. Review: Asia de Cuba in ScottsdaleNovember 29th, 2007, 5:36 pm by Jess HarterThree friends and I take our seats in the sun-drenched, all-white dining room of Asia de Cuba, the Asian-Cuban fusion restaurant at the ultra-trendy Mondrian hotel in downtown Scottsdale.
The occasion of our visit? The return of Asia de Cuba’s dim sum brunch, offered 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sundays. It’s difficult to imagine a more perfect atmosphere, until … CRASH! A ceiling fixture inexplicably falls onto the elegantly set table next to ours, causing everyone to jump. Fortunately, the table is unoccupied and no one is hurt. Maybe it’s an omen, we joke. Perhaps some unknown spirit is telling us to go elsewhere. Ha, ha. It doesn’t take long, however, to start thinking the joke is on us.
Asia de Cuba’s version of dim sum is more along the lines of a tapas bar, where you order small plates from a menu of a dozen items. There’s also a menu of regular brunch dishes. We start with Sambal chicken lollipops ($9, shown below), four small drumsticks with an orange honey sauce. The Sambal and honey provide a sweet and peppery punch, but it’s marred by the overly doughy breading and fatty chicken. Similarly, five-spiced pork papas rellenas ($9), four fried potato balls with too-small caches of meat, are only marginally improved by a nice mango barbecue sauce.
After the arrival of two unimpressive vegetable summer rolls ($8), we decide to give up on the dim sum and shift to the regular brunch menu to satisfy our still-hungry stomachs. Three slices of cinnamon raisin french toast ($14) are OK, once we scrape away a mound of apple-rum compote. A Belgian waffle ($14) is no better than IHOP’s version. Cuban Benedict ($15, pictured at right), two poached eggs with bacon-like Serrano ham and a chipotle hollandaise sauce, is perhaps the best dish we try, although, in fairness, the bar has been set pretty low. I suppose there are plenty of people for whom Asia de Cuba’s cachet is worth ponying up more than $130 for a very average — at best — brunch for four. Not me. The next time a helpful spirit urges me to leave, I’m listening. >> Asia de Cuba at the Mondrian Scottsdale, 7353 E. Indian School Road, is open 6:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 6:30 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. (480) 308-1131. 2 for $20: Dos Gringos Mexigrill in ChandlerNovember 29th, 2007, 5:28 pm by Jess HarterWhen Brian Roehrich maxed out his credit cards and mortgaged his house to open Scottsdale’s Dos Gringos in 1996, little did he realize he was launching an East Valley restaurant and nightlife empire.
His latest concept is a variation of his original — Dos Gringos Mexigrills, neighborhood hangouts that have sprung up in Mesa, south Tempe and, last month, Chandler. The mood: Like its siblings and cousins, the Chandler Dos has the casual feel of a Mexican beach cantina. Furniture is primitive — picnic table-like booths in the outer courtyard, four-top tables inside — and painted a variety of bright colors. The eclectic decor includes humorous signs, strands of lights and numerous photos of patrons having a good time. Rock ’n’ roll music blares from a series of speakers. The food: Many of Dos’ entrees are around $10, but there are options for the budget-conscious. A Mexican lunch buffet on weekdays costs $6.99. There also are daily lunch specials for $5.99; on this Friday, it’s tilapia with mango salsa, rice and beans. I order the Chicken Diablo sandwich ($6.50), which, like all Dos sandwiches, comes on pita bread. It’s filled with a heaping helping of grilled chicken, jack cheese, lettuce and creamy “diablo sauce,” which isn’t spicy despite the name. Mexican rice and pico de gallo come on the side. My dining companion gets the Gringo Rolls ($6.99), which have chicken, black bean hummus and jack cheese rolled up in flour tortillas and topped with pico and sour cream. Although listed as an appetizer, it makes a filling lunch. The drinks: Our Diet Cokes are $2 apiece. The damage: $17.49. For a no-frills place where the focus seems to be on the cheap beer (Dos claims to be the No. 1 seller of Corona in the country), the food is tastier than we expect. It’s no wonder these Mexigrills are popping up all over the East Valley. >> Dos Gringos Mexigrill, 1361 N. Alma School Road, Chandler, is open 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily. (480) 855-3303. Review: Gordon Biersch in GilbertNovember 28th, 2007, 5:06 pm by Jess HarterHow starved are Gilbert residents for restaurants? Look no further than the month-old Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant at SanTan Village for an answer.
Mind you, this isn’t Pizzeria Bianco, where long waits are routine but pay off with what one New York Times food writer called “maybe the best pizza in America.” This is Gordon Biersch, the Tennessee-based chain — it also has restaurants in Tempe and Scottsdale — better known for its handcrafted lagers than its New American menu. Part of the reason for the wait is the confusion at the door. After putting in our name at the hostess stand, we’re told that “the wait is about 20 minutes, but we have open seating so if you see an available table you can grab it.”
We decide to play it safe and wait for our name to be called, and after about 30 minutes we’re seated in a section where four other booths are empty, despite the line at the door. The restaurant’s acoustics seem to amplify the crowd noise. It’s so loud we can barely hear each other at our table (a matter not helped by the screaming baby in the booth behind us). We decide to start with the chef’s sampler ($14.95, pictured to the left), a trio of chicken appetizers. Southwest egg rolls are crunchy and delicious, while shrimp-and-chicken potstickers are so-so. A big disappointment, though, are the glazed chicken wings, which are stone-cold.
Sweet and spicy cashew Asian stir fry ($14.95), another house speciality, is a large bowl of chicken and vegetables in a thin sauce that’s neither sweet nor spicy. If there’s a difference between “jasmine rice” and plain white rice, I don’t taste it. Our final entree, goat cheese ravioli topped with spinach, mushrooms and pine nuts ($15.50, shown at right), is bland and dry despite the menu’s mention of a brown butter sauce. Even our dessert, chocolate peanut butter pie with an Oreo crust ($6.25), is curiously lacking in flavor. The good news for Gilbert residents is more restaurants are coming soon to SanTan Village, including the Keg Steakhouse, Kona Grill and Brio Tuscan Grille. Until then, they’ll have to continue to watch their wait. >> Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant, 2218 E. Williams Field Road, Gilbert, is open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday and Monday, 11 a.m. to midnight Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. (480) 722-0883. Just opened: California Pizza Kitchen in MesaNovember 28th, 2007, 2:33 am by Jess Harter
The restaurant, on the northwest corner of Val Vista Drive and Baseline Road, offers a menu of hearth-baked pizzas, including what it calls “the original BBQ Chicken Pizza.” Also on the menu are salads, sandwiches and pastas. CPK, which was started in 1985 by lawyers Rick Rosenfield and Larry Flax, has more than 200 locations in 27 states and seven foreign countries. Other East Valley CPKs are located in Chandler, Tempe and Scottsdale. >> California Pizza Kitchen, 1850 S. Val Vista Drive, Mesa, is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. (480) 558-7505. Oh, baby(-back)! A rib dinner for just 29 cents on ThursdayNovember 27th, 2007, 5:19 pm by Jess Harter
The offer, which includes a choice of three barbecue sauce and two sides, is good while supplies last and is restricted to dine-in customers only. “We think our ribs are the best in the Valley, and we want to be able to offer everyone a special incentive to come out and try them,” says restaurant co-owner Mark Voss. A half-rack of baby-back ribs and two sides normally sells for $15.99. Atomic 29 plans to offer specials on the 29th of every month, and will host a “Leap Year Party” on Feb. 29, 2008. >> Atomic 29 Grill, 1910 S. Gilbert Road, Mesa, (480) 503-0029. Just opened: Sushi Eye in Motion in ChandlerNovember 25th, 2007, 11:18 pm by Jess Harter
Sushi Eye in Motion, a block south of Chandler Boulevard and a block west of Arizona Avenue, features Arizona’s first sushi belt, which moves a constant array of sushi rolls and menu selections around the sushi bar. Customers can pick up any dish from the moving belt, or order from the menu. Dishes on the belt are digitally tracked through bar codes to ensure freshness, according to Sushi Eye owner Paul Cho. >> Sushi Eye in Motion, 58 W. Buffalo St., Chandler, is open 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday (lunch) and 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday (dinner). (480) 686-8183. Just opened: Fresh From the Farm in Queen CreekNovember 23rd, 2007, 10:55 pm by Jess HarterMark Schnepf stands in the roadside shack where his family sold vegetables in the 1960s and shakes his head at the steady stream of vehicles on Rittenhouse Road.
Schnepf Farms, a 300-acre parcel in Queen Creek, has been worked by three generations of the Schnepf family. As waves of new homes have washed away neighboring farms, Schnepf’s operation has evolved to survive. The farm still grows vegetables — including broccoli, cauliflower, beets, corn, turnips and sweet peas — and has Arizona’s largest peach orchard. Since the early ’90s, however, Mark and his wife, Carrie, have supplemented the farm’s income by hosting seasonal festivals that draw as many as 18,000 people a day, as well as outdoor concerts, haunted houses, wedding receptions and educational tours.
And today, the Schnepfs launch their latest attraction: A full-service restaurant called Fresh From the Farm, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Wednesdays through Sundays. The restaurant takes over the historic vegetable stand, which had been used in recent years as a country store and bakery. Nate Brown, a banquet cook at The Phoenician resort, has been hired to oversee the kitchen.
Prices haven’t been finalized, but the most expensive entrée will be less than $20, she says. Inspiration for the restaurant came from the Schnepfs’ annual trips to the French countryside. “We wanted to re-create some of that French country feel,” says Mark Schnepf. “Not with the cuisine, but with the décor.” Rustic chairs and tables with bright country-motif tableclothes provide indoor seating for about 40 people. A small patio can hold another 30. Beyond that, there’s 300 acres for more outdoor tables if the demand is there. “We’re already a seasonal venue,” he says. “We want to create reasons for people to come year-round. “We want to create a special place.” >> Fresh From the Farm, 24810 S. Rittenhouse Road, Queen Creek, is open 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. (480) 987-3100. Review: Canal in ScottsdaleNovember 22nd, 2007, 10:37 pm by Jess HarterMuch like the models expected to grace the S-shaped runway that carves through its dining room, Canal looks very nice. The question for diners: Is Canal more than just a pretty face?
Decorated in rich tones of red, gold and brown, Canal’s interior serves up a feast for the eyes. Thirty feet of high-definition screens run along one wall, parallel to the illuminated runway, flashing images of the latest styles to the beat of high-energy music. Sheer curtains and dim lighting contribute to the intimacy of circular booths and gracefully set tables. A wall of floor-to-ceiling glass windows looks out on a waterfront patio still under construction.
For starters, we order the roasted meatballs ($10), which come three to a plate with a mushroom gravy and arugula and fennel salad, and sweet corn cakes ($11), two fair-sized patties with avocado salad, arugula, cotija cheese and a red pepper puree. The meatballs, a special on this night, are a little bland, but the corn cakes are delicious. I only wish they weren’t so stingy with the zesty puree. Moving on to entrees, a petite filet mignon ($32, shown above) is perfectly cooked but, like the meatballs, fails to excite. One of my dining companions even remarks, “What I wouldn’t give for a bottle of A1.” Compounding the problem, the steak’s thin sauce thoroughly soaks half of the accompanying Parmesan fries, making a soggy mess.
Almost saving the day all on its own, though, is an apple Wellington dessert pastry ($9, pictured left) topped with a scoop of Haagen-Dazs pistachio ice cream. Any fan of TV’s popular “Project Runway” knows the competing fashion designers are encouraged to push the boundaries of style. Playing it too safe is a sure way to get sent home. In much the same way, Canal’s menu displays flashes of creativity, but too often lapses into the uninspired. Until the restaurant finds a way to “make it work,” I’ll just be tuning in for dessert. >> Canal, 7144 E. Stetson Drive, Scottsdale, is open 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. (480) 949-9000. 2 for $20: Gennaro’s Pizzeria & Italian Kitchen in ChandlerNovember 22nd, 2007, 10:28 pm by Jess HarterSince opening earlier this year in south Chandler, Gennaro’s Pizzeria & Italian Kitchen has built a solid neighborhood following with its delicious New York-style pizzas. Recently, though, a friend and I stopped in at lunchtime to try a couple of the nonpizza menu items.
The food: The lasagna ($7. pictured in front), with four layers and three cheeses, is basic but tasty. It’s a large, thick portion, with plenty of chunky tomato sauce. Garlic bread is served with it. The cheesesteak ($6) also is hefty. Served on a 10-inch soft roll (imported from Philly, according to the menu), it’s filled with shaved steak and large pieces of onions. The cheesesteak comes with chips but, surprisingly, not cheese. For an extra 50 cents, though, I could have gotten Cheese Whiz. But it’s pretty good without cheese. The drinks: Our fountain sodas are $1.50. The damage: $17.30. I’m still a fan of Gennaro’s pizza, but it’s nice to know there are other options. >> Gennaro’s Pizzeria & Italian Kitchen, 4015 S. Arizona Ave., Chandler, is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. (480) 895-8700. Review: King’s Fish House in TempeNovember 21st, 2007, 9:43 pm by Jess HarterI confess I wasn’t looking forward to visiting King’s Fish House, the California-based chain that opened its first Arizona restaurant last month at Tempe Marketplace.
Turns out, I couldn’t have been more wrong. King’s Fish House has an clean, almost elegant look. Just a couple of small prints and an occasional mounted fish decorate the floor-to-ceiling wood-paneled walls of the spacious dining area. Servers are attired in black and white. And the menu? It’s a straightforward roster of just about any type of seafood you can think of — from swordfish to barramundi to arctic char — prepared in a variety of styles. Fresh seafood arrives six days a week, and the selections change so frequently that King’s has to print new menus twice a day, according to our server.
Our server enthusiastically endorses the grilled swordfish with oven-dried tomatoes ($23.95, shown at right), and she’s right. The inch-thick slab tastes almost like a pork chop and is perhaps the best swordfish I’ve ever had. It comes with a mushy ratatouille, which proves to be the only disappointment I find on King’s menu, and new potatoes dusted with Parmesan cheese. Those looking for more variety might like the New England Clambake ($32.50, pictured below), a giant platter with a 1 1/4-pound Maine lobster, steamed mussels and Manila clams, red potatoes and two small ears of sweet corn.
I recommend the chicken parmigiana ($16.95), two large cutlets that are lightly breaded and topped with a zesty tomato sauce that has a chunky texture closer to pico de gallo than gravy. The chicken parm comes with a choice of two of King’s 10 sides, which range from jasmine rice to mac and cheese. There’s no letdown in quality when it comes to desserts. A rustic apple tart ($6.95) features fresh sliced apples baked in a trumpet of filo dough. My favorite, however, is the fruit crisp ($6.95) with seasonal fruit — you’re in luck if it’s blueberries — baked with an oatmeal-walnut topping. I guess when you cast out into the uncharted waters of new seafood restaurants, sometimes you’re pleasantly surprised by what you reel in. >> King’s Fish House, 35 S. McClintock Drive, Tempe, is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday and Monday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. (480) 966-9121. Review: McDuffy’s Grille in ChandlerNovember 15th, 2007, 11:38 pm by Jess HarterLike all sports champions, McDuffy’s run eventually had to come to end. Still, it was a little surprising when the venerable institution abruptly closed last year after 18 years. (A Peoria spinoff is still going strong.)
Launched last month on the northwest corner of McQueen and Pecos roads in Chandler, McDuffy’s Grille still emphasizes sports-watching — there are 20 high-definition screens — but the vibe is that of a slightly upscale restaurant. Say goodbye to pool tables, sand volleyball courts and off-track betting. Say hello to steak chimichurri, mojito chicken, wine by the glass in two price tiers. The 6,800-square-foot space is divided into two parts. The cozy indoor area features a polished granite bar, comfortable booths and dramatic lighting. The new restaurant’s slogan — “Eat, Drink, Relax” — is printed in three-foot letters on the brick-colored wall.
The menu of American and Mexican dishes caters to a diverse clientele. Appetizers range from traditional bar food, such as wings ($8.99 for 10) and nachos ($5.99), to fancier selections, such as Baja shrimp martinis ($8.95) and chicken taquitos drizzled with a spicy avocado sauce ($7.99). Sampler platters (pictured left) are available, allowing you to mix and match small portions of as many as six appetizers.
But I’m most impressed with the house specialties. The aforementioned steak chimichurri ($15.99) — sliced flank steak well-seasoned with Southwest spices and the Argentine sauce — is aptly complemented with sweet-chili mashed potatoes. And then there are the Tex-Mex ribs ($13.99 for half-rack, shown at right). The savory meat on the pork back ribs, grilled with a spicy-sweet barbecue sauce, literally falls onto my plate when I lift them. Dessert choices are somewhat limited but include artery-challenging cheesecake bites ($5.25) rolled in graham cracker crust, deep-fried and served with ice cream. If I’m going to be a regular at McDuffy’s Grille — and I will be — maybe a sand volleyball court isn’t such a bad idea after all. >> McDuffy’s Grille, 980 E. Pecos Road, Chandler, is open 10 a.m. to midnight Sunday, 11 a.m. to midnight Monday and Tuesday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Wednesday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday. (480) 966-8200. 2 for $20: Einstein Bros. Bagels in MesaNovember 15th, 2007, 11:32 pm by Jess HarterBagels aren’t just for breakfast anymore. Einstein Bros. Bagels, like many bagel shops across the country, also offers a variety of bagel sandwiches for lunch.
After checking out the shelves of bagels along one wall, we order at the counter and are issued paper tickets, which we take to the cash register. The food: My friend gets what the menu calls Stacked Roast Beef on Challah ($5.99). Curiously, he’s asked what type of bagel he’d like it on, and he chooses spinach. So much for challah. It comes with cheddar cheese, veggies and a mild garlic horseradish spread. I decide to try the Cajun Andouille Gourmet Bagel Dog ($5.69), a pork sausage wrapped in an onion bagel. Unlike my friend’s sandwich, which is made from scratch, mine is taken from the cold case of ready-to-go items and microwaved. The bagel dog has a nice, spicy flavor, but is slightly overnuked, making the sausage and bagel a little too chewy. The bagel sandwich, on the other hand, tastes very good. The drinks: We get a couple of large sodas ($1.69), which we fill at the fountain. The damage: $16.23. To his credit, the guy who took our order tried to discourage me from ordering the bagel dog. I suspect they had run out of fresh ones by midafternoon. Next time, I’ll stick with the sandwiches. >> Einstein Bros. Bagels, 1919 S. Gilbert Road, Mesa, is open 5 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday, 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday, 6 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday. (480) 539-9501. Review: Cien Agaves Tacos & Tequila in ScottsdaleNovember 14th, 2007, 11:16 pm by Jess HarterCertain foods and drinks just seem to go together. Wine and cheese, beer and brats, milk and cookies. And, when it comes to Mexican cuisine, tacos and tequila.
The two-story building, previously the Butcher Block Restaurant and, before that, Tapas Restaurant, juxtaposes a mostly rustic decor — a stained concrete bar, dark wood furniture, tile-decorated columns — with high-energy Latin music and the colorful Chicano pop art by Valley artist Moises. As a result, Cien Agaves draws an eclectic crowd, ranging from baby boomer turistas browsing Old Town’s curio shops to hip 20-somethings who can pack the place after dark, especially on weekends.
My favorite, and the restaurant’s most popular, is the Tinga taco ($4), filled with shredded chicken that has been marinated in a chipotle chili sauce. It comes in a corn tortilla and is deep-fried. It has a nice, bold flavor but — like all of Cien Agaves’ tacos — it’s not overtly hot and should be fine for anyone except the most spice-averse. I also give high marks to the chorizo con pappas taco ($4), Mexican sausage sauteed with potatoes, and the taco al pastor ($4), marinated steak in adobo sauce mixed with grilled pineapples. Seafood lovers will enjoy the camarones a la diabla ($5), shrimp sauteed in tangy guajillo sauce and Mexican rice, and the lobster taco ($6), which mixes the meat with a crunchy jicama salad.
All meals come with chips and two very good salsas, red and green. The highlight of the side dishes ($3 apiece) is the delicious grilled corn, a full cob with the husk tied into a decorative bow. The ear is liberally sprinkled with salty cotija cheese and dusted with chili powder. Other sides include rice and beans, guajillo mashed potatoes and jicama “fruit” salad with diced tomatoes, pineapples, corn and onions. At the bar, aficionados can choose from nearly 100 (“cien”) tequilas — which, of course, are made from blue agaves, thus the restaurant’s name. Not surprisingly, wonderful margaritas are the house specialties. Because what goes better with tacos? >> Cien Agaves Tacos & Tequila, 7228 E. First Ave., Scottsdale, is open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. (480) 970-9002. Just opened: Majerle’s Sports Grill in ChandlerNovember 14th, 2007, 10:50 pm by Jess Harter
Majerle’s Sports Grill, a 5,000-square-foot building that formerly housed Rockfish Seafood Grill, boasts 18 high-definition televisions, a large patio and a bocce ball court. The menu offers burgers and sandwiches ($7.29-$10.99), pizzas ($7.99-$10.99) and entrees ranging from Thai stir fry ($10.99) to filet mignon ($20.99). >> Majerle’s Sports Grill, 3095 W. Chandler Boulevard, Chandler, (480) 899-7999. Review: Taggia in ScottsdaleNovember 8th, 2007, 10:31 pm by Jess HarterThe opposite of love isn’t hate, it’s indifference. And a general lack of enthusiasm pretty much sums up my feelings about Taggia, the eight-month-old coastal Italian restaurant at FireSky Resort & Spa in Scottsdale.
Three friends and I barely have time to open chef Claudio Urciuoli’s menu when our server asks if we’re ready to order. “What’s the soup of the day?” we have to ask. “What’s the pasta of the day? How about the fish of the day?” We ask for a few minutes, but he quickly returns and brusquely asks if we’ve made up our minds. Jeez, the rustic restaurant — with white plaster walls, rusted metal accents and a hardwood floor — is only one-third full, and we appear to be this server’s only table. Still, we can’t seem to order fast enough for the guy, so we hastily pick out a couple of appetizers, then turn to entrees.
“We’re out of that,” our server informs us. I’m tempted to point out the ordering process might go much quicker if we didn’t have to drag every piece of information out of him, but I think better of it. It’s a beautiful fall day, the sun is shining and we’re in no hurry. I’m determined to salvage the remainder of our visit. It doesn’t take long for our appetizers to arrive, and things start looking up. We start with burrata ($11), an Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream. Taggia is one of the only Valley restaurants that offers the buttery cheese. Ours is served cold with small, juicy tomatoes and crostini. (Taggia nows serves it with prosciutto crudo and arugula, as pictured above left.) Personally, I’m not a fan of the rubbery texture of grilled calamari ($10), but Taggia’s has a nice smoky flavor that’s complemented by Umbrian white beans and scallions.
But our other entrees don’t quite rise to the same level. A dish of small, ear-shaped pasta called orcchiette ($14) comes with sausage I wish were spicier and a tomato sauce — despite bits of red pepper and onion — I wish were zestier. The maccheroncini di farro ($13), a pasta made from Tuscan emmer wheat, has an interesting, primitive flavor, which overwhelms an even blander sauce than the orcchiette. Taggia’s dessert selections are pretty routine — tiramisu, gelato, etc. — with one exception: panna cotta, “cooked cream,” with strawberries. Excitedly, we order it. “Oh, we’re out of that,” our server replies with a shrug. Of course. >> Taggia, 4925 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale (at FireSky Resort & Spa), is open 7 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. daily (breakfast), 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily (lunch), 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday (dinner). (480) 424-6095.
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