I’ve never been to the Land of the Rising Sun, but Taneko Japanese Tavern is pretty much what this gaijin would expect a traditional Japanese pub to look like.
Located in Scottsdale’s upscale Borgata shopping center, the year-old restaurant — from the people behind P.F. Chang’s China Bistro and Pei Wei Asian Diner — is a barnlike structure built with large wood beams and exposed rafters. Red padded booths and chairs surround dark wood tables. Hanging paper lanterns dimly illuminate the stylishly decorated space, which is divided by a long, one-sided bar.
Inspired by izakayas, the taverns where Japanese workers stop for food or a drink on the way home from work, Taneko offers the predictable sushi and sashimi, but its menu also features grilled meats, seafood and even some non-Japanese dishes.
Two friends and I start with one of the restaurant’s popular hot rock appetizers (left): thin slices of marinated Kobe beef ($14) that we cook on a flat ceramic stone brought to our table from Taneko’s 600-degree oven. Just 10 or so sizzling seconds per side produces a medium-well piece of tasty meat, at least for the first couple. By the time we get to the last of our eight or nine pieces, the rock has lost much of its heat.
We also try an appetizer plate of gyoza ($6), small dumplings filled with seasoned ground pork, that are just average.
Taneko’s entrees, our server explains, are divided into two categories. On the menu’s left side is a column of more or less authentic Japanese dishes. On the right, more American-like dishes “with a Japanese twist,” such as a Kobe beef burger with fingerling potatoes.
We decide to try three of the authentic dishes.
The grilled Korubuta pork sirloin ($17) — Korubuta is the porcine equivalent of Kobe beef — has a bold-flavored dry rub of Japanese spices that has a nice kick. But the carved pieces are a little dry, and those without the rub are fairly bland. A side of chili-citrus sauce (basically a dish of applesauce with some bits of chili) doesn’t add much.
The Alaskan salmon ($26) has a nice wood-grilled flavor, but comes with so-so sushi rice and “wok’d” greens. For the price, I expect better sides. Our most enjoyable entree is the bacon-wrapped lamb sirloin ($26, shown at right) — a new menu item — which comes with a ginger-chive dip and more “wok’d” greens.
Our two desserts — chocolate cake drenched in warm chocolate sauce ($6) and green tea cheesecake ($6) — are tasty, but not special enough to be memorable.
Which pretty much sums up my experience at Taneko Tavern. I don’t have any major complaints, but nothing really to rave about, either.
>> Taneko Japanese Tavern, 6166 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale (at The Borgata), is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. (480) 308-9950.
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