With an impeccably presented Asian-Italian fusion menu and refined urban chic decor, Grill Square is one of those stylish eateries often found in see-and-be-seen hot spots like Scottsdale, Aspen and L.A.

So what the heck is it doing in Mesa?

And at Fiesta Mall, no less?

I know. I find it hard to believe, too. I’ve been eating out in Mesa for more than two decades, and I’ve never seen such a trendy restaurant in Arizona’s third-largest city.

Now that I think about it, I’ve also never seen “Mesa” and “trendy” in the same sentence, at least without the words “is not” between them.

And yet, last month, Grill Square opened next to Sears, just inside the northeast entrance of the 28-year-old mall, setting its sights on raising the city’s dining reputation.

The restaurant’s interior, mostly metal gray and natural wood with accents of black and burnt orange, oozes sophistication. To the left, sunlight pours through a glass garage door onto a sleek bar. To the right, a grill counter fronts an open-air kitchen.

In the dining area, large booths accommodate up to six people. Linen napkins in heavy metal rings and triangular salt and pepper shakers rest on translucent green tabletops.

Techno music pulses from overhead speakers as the young, attractive staff — dressed all in black, of course — attend to diners.

Chef Donald Rini’s signature Asian grill dishes range from misoyaki pork to satay chicken to Tahi chili shrimp, all served kabob-style.

I try the teriyaki beef and caramelized peppers ($12), two skewers accompanied by rice cakes, sauteed leeks and a full head of roasted garlic. When the server hears I like spicy food, she produces a dish of “atomic” tomato sauce that jazzes up the beef even more.

The seared tuna sandwich ($14) proves to be a whopper serving of sesame-encrusted ahi tuna topped with avocado and wasabi crème fraiche. Although the menu doesn’t mention it, it comes with a large bowl of french fries.

The smoked chicken pasta ($12) — large slices of chicken, bow-tie pasta and a medley of vegetables in a zinfandel wine sauce — is OK, but the least impressive of the entrees I sample.

On the other hand, the Thai chicken pizza ($10) is the standout. Large enough for two, the pie is loaded with seasoned poultry, crunchy jicama, micro greens and mozzarella. A tangy peanut sauce, which comes on the side, elevates the pizza from good to great.

As I prepare to leave, I’m given small cards promoting Grill Square’s bar, which offers great happy hour prices, as well as nightly drink specials. There’s even a DJ on some nights.

A trendy nightclub in Mesa? I can hardly believe it.

Grill Square
Where: 1445 W. Southern Ave., Mesa (inside Fiesta Mall)
Open: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Prices: Appetizers $3-$12, salads $6-$12, Asian grill dishes $12-$16, pastas $10-$15, pizzas $9-$12, sandwiches/burgers $8-$14, desserts $6.
Info: (480) 964-0404

When I was a little kid, I was confused by the word “hamburger.” Hamburgers obviously weren’t made with ham. Why weren’t they called beef burgers? Of course, I eventually learned the term referred to the German city of Hamburg, where the sandwich purportedly originated.

I was reminded about this last week when I visited Stax Burger Bistro, a two-month-old restaurant on the southwest corner of Scottsdale and Camelback roads.

To say Stax specializes in burgers is an understatement. Except for two salads, the only entrees on the menu are burgers.

But that doesn’t mean your choices are limited. In fact, the eatery’s extensive roster of meats and condiments provides a nearly infinite number of combinations.

Besides beef, burger “grinds” can be made with turkey, buffalo, ostrich, lamb, salmon or veggies. The burgers are small — just 3 ounces — so if you’re hungry, order two.

Once you decide on your meat, you can select your own toppings or go with a “Stax Style” determined by the restaurant’s chef.

For example, a Stax Style turkey burger ($4) is infused with spinach, feta cheese, shaved red onion and green, red and yellow peppers. It’s then topped with provolone cheese, grilled pineapple, fresh guacamole and pico de gallo.

If you prefer to build your own, the turkey patty will cost $3. Seven types of cheese (including Cheez Whiz!) are a quarter apiece, as are toppings including Roma tomatoes and caramelized onions.

For those who want to really get fancy, Stax offers four signature aiolis, or sauces: jalapeño, pesto, garlic or spicy. Or, also for a quarter, you can opt for a special chutney or hummus.

After a couple visits, I must admit I found Stax’s basic beef burger to be somewhat mundane. Even with cheese and onions, it’s average at best.

The Stax Styles, however, are another story.

My favorite is the savory buffalo burger ($5), topped with Monterey Jack, an onion ring, peach barbecue sauce and pickled shallots.

The aforementioned turkey burger is another winner, as is the semisweet lamb burger ($5) with provolone, butter lettuce, peach-mint-mango chutney, pickled shallots and chives.

Heck, this carnivore even likes Stax’s veggie burger ($4).

Sides range from $3 for a small basket of tater tots or sweet potato fries to $5 for bowl of Mac ’n’ Jack, which comes with a baked crust of Parmesan bread crumbs.

With its industrial-chic decor, prime location (formerly Ibiza Café) and full bar (including nearly 100 wines by the glass or half-bottle and speciality drinks like $9 cantaloupe or Gummy Bear martinis), Stax already has become a destination for the hip and trendy crowd.

Now, if Stax could just come up with a burger made from ham.

Stax Burger Bistro
Where: 4400 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale (southwest corner of Scottsdale
and Camelback roads)
Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight daily
Prices: Burgers $3-$5, sides $3-$5, salads $6
Info: (480) 946-4222

San Tan Brewing Co., which had hoped to open Saturday in downtown Chandler, is now scheduled to open Sept. 15. “I’ll start brewing (this) week,” says owner Anthony Canecchia, formerly head brewer at Tempe’s Four Peaks Brewing Co. “The week after, we’ll be training the staff.” The upscale brew pub is next to Mexican restaurant El Zocalo, southwest of the intersection of Arizona Avenue and Chandler Boulevard.

It’s hard to categorize Urban Campfire. Is the six-week-old Tempe restaurant, which specializes in smoked meats like ribs, pork and brisket, a barbecue joint?

Or, with owner-chef Robert Stempkowski’s experience at such fine dining establishments as Binkley’s, Mary Elaine’s and Sanctuary, is it a gourmet eatery?

Or, having taken over the former Greasy Tony’s on the edge of the Arizona State University campus, is it a student hangout?

The answer: It’s at least a little of all three.

Urban Campfire, on the southeast corner of University Drive and Rural Road, serves an all-day menu of affordably priced comfort foods served with a side of panache.

Like a chicken salad sandwich ($7.25) made with smoked poultry, pickled red onions, toasted pumpkin seeds, jicama and chili-spiced raisins and served on challah bread.

Or a Philly sandwich ($7.95) with smoked beef brisket and a mix of green chilies, roasted garlic, mushrooms and sweet onions on a baguette with a side of au jus cheddar cheese sauce.

But Urban Campfire is hardly fancy. Walk through the door and you’re in the middle of the nondescript, square dining area, which has an open kitchen on one wall and a bar that runs along another.

Vinyl-covered chairs surround the laminate-top tables. Menus also serve as place mats.

Food offerings, however, aren’t as straightforward.

For starters, try a cup of Aunt Chi Chi’s Green Stew ($2.95), stocked with cumin-rubbed smoked pork, fire-roasted chilies, corn and potatoes. The thin broth isn’t overly filling, and it has a nice, warm flavor.

Red’s Kettle Chili ($2.95) comes with three types of beans — kidney, pinto and black — and what’s billed as spiced ground beef simmered in chili-spiked tomato sauce. I like the taste, but wish it had a lot more kick.

Among the eight sandwiches on the menu, the clear standouts are the UC Sliders ($6.95), three small buns with melt-in-your-mouth pulled pork in a zesty barbecue sauce. As a side, I like the hand-cut house fries sprinkled with coarse parmesan.

The burgers ($7.95) also are quite good. Besides a selection of cheeses (cheddar, SSWwiss, Muenster, blue, au jus sauce), topping choices include the aforementioned stew or chili, peppered bacon, basil’d tomatoes, smoked sweet onions or pepper-and-citrus slaw.

The smoky, fall-off-the-bone spareribs ($9.95 for short rack) are my favorite of Urban Campfire’s three signature entrees, edging out the stuffed Anaheim chilies ($10.95) and smoked salmon ($13.95).

Other than floats, the only desserts are old-fashioned haystack cookies ($1.25), made with stick pretzels held together by mini-marshmallows, peanut butter and butterscotch. Be warned: One is big enough for a couple of people to share. Whether they be barbecue lovers, foodies or college students.

Urban Campfire
Where: 921 E. University Drive, Tempe (southeast corner of University Drive and Rural Road)
Open: 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 10:30 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday
Prices: Soups/stews $2.95-$5.75, sandwiches $2.95-$7.95, salads $3.95-$8.95, entrees $5.95-$17.95, desserts $1.25
Info: (480) 967-5524 or urbancampfire.com

McDuffy’s return to the East Valley has been pushed back a week or two. Scott Adams, owner of the popular West Valley sports bar, hopes his new neighborhood concept, McDuffy’s Grille, will be open by mid-September on the northwest corner of McQueen and Pecos roads in Chandler. McDuffy

Despite several Internet reports that Kasha’s Bakery & BBQ has closed, the Tempe restaurant is still open. The former Atlanta Bread Company, on the southeast corner of Elliot Road and Priest Drive, is for sale, but remains open for lunch and dinner. Info: (480) 940-4778.

There aren’t many restaurants in the East Valley where you can get a great meal and a glass of wine at 1:30 a.m., especially on weeknights. But that small list has grown by one, thanks to Centro Paninoteca.

Opened in May by chef-owner Chris Cottingham, the former general manager of trendy Phoenix burger bar Delux, Centro doesn’t look like much at first glance.

Tucked next to Scottsdale country bar Handlebar J, Cottingham’s eatery takes up less than 900 square feet — barely big enough for eight tiny tables, a five-stool bar and a small counter by the door.

What it lacks in size, though, it more than makes up for with atmosphere.

The dark wood furniture, dark brown floors and dark ceiling make Centro look … well, dark — even during the day. At night, though, small candles at each table are reflected off a row of mirrors on the wall, basking the entire space in a warm glow.

An eclectic mix of house music creates a nice vibe, playing loud enough not to be lost in the background but not so loud as to make conversation difficult.

And the staff? Attentive, friendly and knowledgeable. Cottingham himself is likely to wander over and strike up a conversation.

Of course, all of this atmosphere means little without the food to match. Centro has no worries there: It offers a wonderful array of appetizers and panini sandwiches until 2 a.m. every day except Sunday.

The half-dozen starters include a delectable salmon carpaccio ($10), a hefty plate of smoked salmon, baby arugula, capers and red onion, and a scrumptious ceviche ($9.50) with shrimp, tomato, cilantro, onion, sweet peas and lime.

Aside from three salads, the rest of the menu consists of paninis (10 so far) and a daily market sandwich. You can’t go wrong with any of them.

My favorite is the Italian press ($8.50), long, thick slices of spicy pepperoni and salami topped with a zesty tomato sauce, mozzarella, Parmesan and rosemary.

Or maybe the chicken panini ($9.50), a marinated chicken breast with roasted red pepper and tomato, mozzarella, baby arugula and pesto mayo.

Or perhaps the grilled Gorgonzola and fig on sourdough ($7).

In other words, I’m looking forward to trying them all.

All the sandwiches come with cayenne- and cumin-laced Terra sweet-potato chips.

As for wine, Centro offers 18 reds and whites, most from Italy, by the glass for $7 to $12. Daily specials are as little as $5 per glass.

It’s easy to see why hip and affordable Centro is fast becoming a favorite hangout of the culinary crowd.

Just be sure to save me a bar stool.

Centro Paninoteca
Where: 7120 E. Becker Lane, Scottsdale (northwest of Scottsdale Road
and Shea Boulevard)
Hours: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Saturday
Prices: Appetizers $3-$10; salads $5.50-$8; paninis $7-$9.50
Info: (480) 443-7162 or centropaninoteca.com

SanTan Village, the new regional shopping center on the southwest corner of Greenfield and Williams Field roads in Gilbert, has announced three more restaurants that will open locations there. Brew pub Gordon Biersch is scheduled to open Oct. 26, the day of SanTan Village’s official grand opening. Gourmet Mexican restaurant Cantina Laredo and The Keg Steakhouse & Bar will open next spring. A few restaurants, such as Waldo’s BBQ and NYPD Pizza, already have opened at SanTan Village. Others scheduled to open this fall include Blue Wasabi, Brio Tuscan Grille, Ruby Tuesday and Someburros.

The guys behind el Pedregal’s year-old Spotted Donkey Cantina have opened an upscale restaurant next door in the north Scottsdale shopping center. Owners Cliff Skoglund and Robert Hall have a similar setup in their hometown of Santa Fe, where they have a hip Western eatery called Senor Lucky’s next to an upscale, four-star fusion restaurant called Geronimo. Their new restaurant, Luc’s (pronounced Lucks), takes over the former Shugrue’s Bar & Grill location and has a menu that it describes as “French-Asian fusion.” The dinner menu includes such chef specialties as sweet garlic lamb chops with Asian ratatouille and eggplant raviolis ($34) and free-range rock hen with boursin “mac and cheese” ($24). Steaks range from filet mignon with a roasted tomato gorgonzola cap ($41) to the New York strip with French onion sherry wine tart ($49). Lobster entrees ranges from a sauteed Maine lobster with baby bok choy, shiitake and oyster mushroom orzo and Arborio risotto ($42) to roasted lobster cremini mushrooms, rolled together in a buttery pastry with Ricard spinach and topped with a Thai-spiced pesto sauce ($30). The tapas menu has salads ($9-$17), pizzas ($10-$14) and other offerings, such as prime beef tartare with green onion sesame pancakes and black truffle mustard ($15). Luc’s, 34505 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, is open at 4:30 p.m. (tapas bar) and 5:30 p.m. (dining room) daily. (480) 488-3811.

Jason Frandsen, former sous chef at Olive & Ivy, has been named executive chef at fellow Fox Concept restaurant Bloom, whose changing menu offers American dishes with Asian and European inlfuences. Frandsen has revamped the north Scottsdale boutique-style eatery’s menu, adding such items as poached shrimp, edamame potstickers and sherry-braised short ribs. New desserts include pineapple bread pudding and peanut butter and banana torte. Bloom also will start a series of “Meet the Winemaker” events on Oct. 30. Bloom, 8877 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, is open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday for lunch and 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday for dinner. Info: (480) 922-5666.